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穿越世纪的文明记忆——四川嘉阳小火车自助游攻略(2014年修订版)

发布时间:2010年03月18日 编辑:落日水溶金 访问:643937 评论:63条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 四川 乐山 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 轻松
适合天数: 2天 花费预算: 600元 适合时间: 全年
可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 油菜花 乐山 四川 犍为 小火车 嘉阳 ◎切换到无图简洁版


(小火车穿行于油菜花间    作者:张火痴)
  四川乐山市犍为县大山深处的嘉阳矿区,每天都能听到“呜---呜----”的汽笛声,一列古老蒸汽小火车,用它特有的方式显示着自己的存在:蒸汽式动力、窄窄的铁轨,满是煤灰的司炉、每小时只能跑20公里以及全手工操作,岁月仿佛回溯到了18世纪。

铁轨上的历史
  1765年,瓦特先生在遥远的欧洲大陆发明了蒸汽机之后,世界开始提速,原来依靠风力、水力、畜力来转动的很多机械设备被蒸汽机逐渐代替。
  蒸汽机是当时工业时代的核心,它的出现成为工业文明的标志。几百年的时间里,人类由工业时代进入到了信息时代。仅从动力机械来说,已从蒸汽机发展到了磁悬浮时代。当蒸汽火车在世界的各个角落淡出江湖,成为一种久远的记忆时,四川省犍为县的嘉阳小火车却还在运营,成为现存的唯一的客运小火车。
  到达犍为县跃进镇嘉阳小火车车站,有一种隔世之感。嘉阳小火车的起始站是石溪镇,一个丘陵山区的普通小镇,近些年来因为小火车的诱惑,世界各地的人们次第到来,车站成为人头攒动的舞台,相互观望,互为景观。大众的目的简单明确,为的是一睹两百多年前的发明,探访小火车铁路沿线的生活状态。这条铁路的终点站是黄村井站(最初火车的起点站),一个当年有名的煤矿出口,铁路最初是运送原煤的运输线。当黄村井在上个世纪80年代停止产煤之后人们才发现,全长19.8公里铁路沿线的居民已离不开这条窄轨铁路——它是唯一进出的交通工具,停还是行成为了一个焦点。当一条崎岖的乡村公路艰难地爬进了芭沟时,公共汽车最终没有替代这条摇摇晃晃的小火车。自上个世纪50年代开通小火车之后,人们早已和它融为一体,赶集、婚丧嫁娶、走亲访友……都一一刻上了小火车的烙印。
  关于这条铁路和煤矿,当地人非常自豪。1938年,当日寇的铁蹄在东部中国横行之时,国民党政府被迫迁都重庆。随着政治中心的转移,大批军工和民用企业也纷纷内迁,国内知名人物翁文灏、孙越崎先生创办了“嘉阳煤矿股份有限公司”。早期的煤炭运输是沿着芭沟的峡谷到达马庙(芭马铁路),全长6.5公里,当时为600毫米的窄轨铁路,没有蒸汽机车全靠人力推动小车到达马庙的马边河码头转运出去,为当时的抗战生产提供了很多能源用煤。解放后,生产力有所提高,加上马边河水库的兴建,芭马铁路受到了影响,1958年修建了这条芭沟-石溪镇的铁路,至今仍在安全运行之中。


(穿过隧道的小火车   作者:张火痴)
铁路迪斯科
  石溪车站的站台就是一排商铺,对面是调度指挥的工作大楼,冒着煤烟和白色蒸汽的火车头发出巨大的吼声,它们利用詹天佑当年发明的人字形掉头方法更换车厢。由这里发出的车车头在前,返回的车煤斗在前车头在后,这种蒸汽车头还没有双车头,也不可能180度掉头,便形成了这种独特的驾驶方式。
  挂车厢的时候,车头上挂着一根铁链子,车厢上也挂着一根,工人们就靠这两根铁链子为车头车厢“拉郎配”。车厢之间没有通道,每节车厢的司乘人员都挂着一个口哨,这是通知火车发车停车的信号之一。站台人员在电杆上插上旗语——插红旗,表明站内不具备停车条件,在站外等候;插上红绿旗,表示可以正常进站;如果进站时只有绿旗,表明直接通行。这些曾经的指挥体系在这里是绝对的主流,站上的工作人员说嘉阳小火车是全手动式的老式火车,手动挂车厢、手动铲煤、口哨与红绿旗配合指挥火车停行、每节车厢还有手动刹车、车站使用的是手摇电话,整个劳动方式需要司乘人员的默契配合。
  口哨声和旗语引导着乘客上下。我们钻进阴暗的车厢,来来往往的乘客除了人还有家禽和家畜。
  小火车是嘉阳一带铁路沿线数万人的唯一交通工具,客货混装成为一种可能与必然。逢石溪赶集的时候,沿线的村民会前往采购生产生活资料。购回猪仔饲养,养大后依然在石溪销售,所以在各个车站很容易看到赶猪上车的情形。即便体型更为庞大的耕牛也是小火车的乘客。唯一的交通工具是无法避免与这些动物同坐一列班车的,这里的人们对此早已习惯。
  车厢内只有两列对坐的木凳,没有玻璃的开放式车窗前,是车内车外亲友交流的平台,车内车外的人就着车窗交流握手道别。这种开放式车窗的好处是空气流通,弊端是车头的蒸汽和煤灰也侵入车厢。上学的孩子们会坐第一班车从山里出发,乘坐晚班车回家,里面的油盐酱醋茶等所有的生活资料都是靠这列小火车运送。
  列车一路上发出有节奏的“叮当”之声,车厢不停地摇晃着,有人称之为铁路迪斯科,实在是太逼真了。从石溪到黄井村一共有9个站点方便群众乘坐,其中有一个招呼站,火车招手停,这可能是很多人没有想到的一种奇特现象。


 (亮水沱见彩虹     作者:方发)
芭沟:时间缓慢流淌
  芭沟是一个民居集中的地方,也是嘉阳煤矿最早的工作点,始建于1938年,后与英国合资,成立嘉阳煤矿服份有限责任公司。来自各地的工程技术人员和采煤工人在这里奋斗半个世纪,留下了诸多的历史记忆。这里除了小餐饮、理发店、日杂店,几乎找不到商业痕迹,方圆数十公里没有工业污染,更多的城市人来这里购房定居养老、避暑。
  张大贵老人退休了,就住在铁路边上,他早已习惯了列车与铁轨发出的节奏声音,对于他来说,这是人间最美妙的一种音乐。晚饭后他常常坐在门前的铁路边上喝茶。我问张大爷这儿购买食品菜蔬方便吗?他说:“肉就在镇上买,菜自己种。”还有菜地,他指着铁路边上的零星空地说,你看,这些南瓜、番茄都是绿色食品,自家种的。他还顺手摘了几个红艳艳的番茄塞给我们:“尝尝,比城里卖的好吃多了。”口味果然鲜美,那种果酸地道,回味甘甜。这里消费不高,没有工业污染,山清水秀,鸟语花香,时间过得很是缓慢。其实芭沟虽然没有氤氲的湖面,却有瓦尔登湖同样的意向——与世无争、静谧祥和。这里的人们过着与世无争的生活。人们追求物质的同时,忽略了一种生活状态,当你从小火车的铁门中跨向地面的一瞬间,就会发现生活原来可以这样过。
  科技与城市化进程的加快,很多的历史痕迹正在逐渐消失。蒸汽小火车在欧洲基本绝迹,很多的欧美人士不远万里专程来到犍为,只为看一下他们祖先发明的“铁牛”,感受一下行进的迪斯科。
  嘉阳小火车在短短的几十年里经历过几次功能的变化,从运煤到客运到最后成为一道风景线。嘉阳小火车成了人们了解工业文明、观看工业文明与农业文明融合的一个绝佳地点。
  (文字作者: 刘乾坤)


看车窗外油菜花开    作者:方发


田地间小火车   作者:老叶


 冬日小火车   作者:张火痴


 小火车检修车间前写生    作者:张火痴


 隧道前小火车    作者:张火痴


小火车司机    作者:雨萌


嘉阳小火车车站    作者:小狼


乘车人    作者:小狼


 当地人拾煤渣     作者:方发


 小火车进站    作者:雨萌


 春天里的小火车     作者:雨萌


 小火车检修   作者:张火痴

嘉阳小火车 景点介绍


(穿过秋日风景的小火车   作者:张火痴)
小火车介绍
  小火车运行的芭石铁路地处犍为县芭沟镇、石溪镇境内,距犍为县城12公里。铁路全长19.84公里,轨距762毫米(约为准轨1435毫米的一半);隧洞6个,弧线109段,最小转弯半径70米,最大坡度36.14‰,爬升高差238米。每列车拉7节载人小车厢,车厢之间相对独立,每车座位18个。全线设停车站点8个,风景观光点4个。站点由外到内分别是:石溪站、跃进站、蜜蜂岩站、菜子坝站、仙人脚站、焦坝站、芭沟站、黄村井站。嘉阳小火车每天固定运行客运班车4趟:6:00、9:30、14:00、17:30,每趟往返约两个半小时。节假日另增开两至三列旅游观光专列。
  小火车的终点有工业古镇芭蕉沟、全国唯一的观光煤矿黄村井;芭沟镇是一个民居集中的地方,也是嘉阳煤矿最早的工作点,始建于1938年,后与英国合资,成立嘉阳煤矿服份有限责任公司。来自各地的工程技术人员和采煤工人在这里奋斗半个世纪,留下了诸多的历史记忆。这里除了小餐饮、理发店、日杂店,几乎找不到商业痕迹,从现在留存下来的苏式办公楼,演出广场,英式住宿楼,可以想象其70-80年代时,国营企业的盛况,说它是一个世外桃源式的小社会,一点也不为过。

(嘉阳小火车最新运行时刻表 点击可放大)

乘坐小火车
  票价:
  小火车观光专列:单程50元/人 当次车往返100元/人
  普客加挂观光车厢:单程30元/人 当次车往返50元/人
  观光专列加矿井套票:150元/人
  油菜花花期:3月下旬-4月上旬

  乘坐小火车服务提示:
  1.嘉阳小火车旅游观光车厢及专列已搬迁至跃进站(三井站)发车,观光专列车次均以跃进站发车时间为准,请游客到跃进站游客中心购买旅游观光车票。
  2.嘉阳小火车每天均固定发10:30观光专列(车厢分普通观光车厢和空调豪华车厢),观光专列只在景点停留观光和机车喷蒸汽表演,不在普通站点停留,全程约两个半小时。
  3.普通客车周一至周五从石溪站发车,在跃进站加挂旅游专用观光车厢(请游客到跃进站购买观光车票上车,时间以跃进站发车时间为标准),共发三趟:07:00 、13:00、17:00,全程约两小时。
  4.周六周日13:00普通客车改为观光专列(车厢分为普通观光车厢和空调豪华车厢),观光专列只在景点停留观光和机车蒸汽表演,不在普通站点停留,全程约两个半小时。
  5.国家法定节假日和三四月份小火车的“花季之旅”期间,小火车观光专列的发车时间请查看嘉阳国家矿山公园官网或百度嘉阳小火车贴吧的最新公告。尽可能避开节假日前来,应多选择平时前来乘坐。如果想坐普通车,还应避开1、4、7当地赶场日
  6.如果是团体旅游,应提前预订,一是与当地旅行社联系组团;二是直接与嘉阳旅游部联系(电话:0833-4187999)。
  7.除正班客运列车外,嘉阳小火车观光车每天接待能力最多300人,请大家要有心理准备,大老远前来买不到票、坐不到车是没有办法的。

 (普通客车   作者:方发)

旅游咨询
  旅游咨询电话:0833-4092599 qq:228442128(嘉阳旅游)
  黄村井矿井旅游:0833-4096233
  芭沟火车站:0833-4096284
  嘉阳论坛:http://bbs.scjyjt.com/forum.php

景点介绍
  小火车沿途的主要景点有蜜蜂岩“人”字形掉头、老鹰嘴、菜子坝、亮水沱等。
  蜜蜂岩车站
  这里由于弯度大坡度陡,就利用詹天佑发明的“人”字形掉头方式,让火车通过机车掉头的方式实现转弯的目的。由于火车要向反的方向开,常有乘客会误以为火车又开回去了,其实火车是沿着另一条轨道继续向芭沟方向前进吧了。原本是煤水厢在前的列车也从这里开始变成了漂亮的蒸汽机车锅炉在前。
  老鹰嘴
  地名是因为山的形状得名,远处看三座山峰构成了一只展翅飞翔的老鹰;近看隧洞所在的山峰像老鹰的头部,火车隧洞就是老鹰的眼睛;隧洞前的右上方还有两块鹰嘴石,上面有一群戏耍的小老鹰。老鹰嘴景点是能够充分体现芭石铁路修建难度的路段,此段铁路穿山越岭,是在悬崖峭壁上开出来的。看小火车冒着浓烟从隧洞里进出,从刀劈斧削般的岩壁下喷薄而出,其势不凡,十分壮观。
  菜子坝
  景点主要是观赏田园风光,最小转弯半径70米的弯道就在这儿。小火车在半径只有70米的弯道上艰难爬坡上行,穿行于田园之中。“C”形的大弯道尽展小火车的独特魅力……
  亮水沱
  景点是唯一可以把火车和水库一起收入眼帘的地方。站在亮水沱半山坡的观景台上,看小火车从一线天形状的峡谷中穿出来,跨越几十米高的堡坎,在青山绿水的映衬下分外美丽。有的朋友可能要问,这段路当初为什么要修成堡坎而没有架桥?除了因为架桥成本高、难度大之外,更重要的是这里靠近亮水沱刚才我们看到的一线天,把“一线天”挖出来的土运来填堡坎,一边不用架桥,另一边还少建了一个隧洞,真是一举两得的好办法。,小火车观光专列要在此处为游客表演蒸汽机车喷汽。如果碰上阳光和温度适宜的时候,有缘的朋友还能象看峨眉山金顶佛光一样看到小火车制造的人工彩虹。
  黄村站
  这里是小火车最后一个站点。这里的黄村井是嘉阳煤矿解放后开办的第一口矿井,1952年建设,1986年结束开采。这口矿井目前已经得新打开,正在建设,打算开办矿井探险旅游。让游客下到百米井巷,亲身感受近现代南方薄煤层开采,增加对煤矿的认识,是不久浏览小火车后的又一个非常有魅力的体验游景点。

相关火车游玩攻略推荐
  再见,蒸汽机车——2012年内蒙古克什克腾旗蒸汽机车摄影攻略

  内蒙古克什克腾旗境内的集通铁路线上的经棚路段,因之地处大兴安岭南端和燕山余脉的交汇处,铁路常在崇山峻岭中迂回,特殊的地理环境让蒸汽机车迷和摄影师们认定了这里毫无疑问就是最精彩最出片的地方,这里被誉为“蒸汽机车最后的天堂”。每年在12月28日—次年1月3日之间,都会在经棚镇举行克什克腾旗国际蒸汽机车节。  
  攻略链接:http://www.likefar.com/route/6460/

嘉阳小火车 出游地图


小火车方位地图(点击放大)


 小火车运行线路图(点击放大)

嘉阳小火车 当地交通


(花海里的小火车    作者:张火痴)
  嘉阳小火车·芭石铁路地处四川省乐山市犍为县石溪镇和芭沟镇境内。石溪火车站建于犍为红会医院(原嘉阳医院)上面的半坡上,开往19.84公里的芭蕉沟。山区内不通公路,小火车是芭沟老矿区职工家属和沿途村民唯一的交通工具。

自驾方式
  从成都、乐山方向到嘉阳观赏小火车,沿国道213公路向犍为方向前进,通过犍为大桥后不进县城,右转沿岷江上行14公里到达石溪,(也可以在沙嘴渡口乘汽车和行人渡船过河直达石溪,可比到犍为绕行节约10公里)看见犍为红会医院(原嘉阳医院)后上坡50米即到嘉阳小火车起点石溪站,也可继续前行4公里到嘉阳集团矿区所在地(沿山沟小公路平行,沟的左侧对面是火车路),在火车跃进站乘车。嘉阳矿区当地人叫三井(这里有嘉阳解放后开办的第三号矿井,三井叫天锡井,是嘉阳目前唯一口的矿井,年产120万吨原煤。),这里是嘉阳的总部,环境建设,服务设施较完备。

汽车班次
  到乐山犍为最方便的交通不是火车,而是汽车。
  成都到犍为
  从成都北门汽车站和石羊客运站都有班车发往犍为,里程约200公里。石羊客运站的班次较多。从07:40到17:25滚动发班。票价45元
  联系电话:028-85314666

  乐山到犍为
  乐山到犍为有三种办法:一、中心站乘高速直达客车,20元,全程高速路,中途无上下,55分钟左右到达。二、联营站乘普通客车,16元,走老路,沿途上下,100分钟左右到达。三、中心站或联营站乘商务客车,走老路,沿途基本无上下,一小时多点到达。

  犍为到嘉阳
  犍为直达嘉阳(三井)每10分钟一班,密集型发车,为小火车观光游客提供了快捷、便利的交通服务。犍为早上6:30开班,6:30收班,三井是早上7点开班,晚上8点钟收班。  

嘉阳小火车 当地住宿


(小火车穿过村庄    作者:百信)
  嘉阳矿区当地人叫三井,这里是嘉阳的总部,后勤等服务设施较完备。不过如遇节假日或3月菜花开时,住宿相当紧张,不提前预定一般没地方住。如果到的早可以去住芭沟。

  犍为嘉阳招待所
  地址:四川乐山犍为县芭沟镇跃进桥
  价格:标准间 100元/间
  联系:0833-4092202
  推荐理由:综合楼5至7层是新建成的招待所。有豪华套间,单人间,标准间和棋牌活动室。是目前嘉阳小火车全线唯一一个标准化的招待所,条件较好。

  犍为芭沟百信旅店
  地址:四川乐山犍为县芭沟镇
  价格:标准间 80元/间;四人间 15元/人
  联系:0833-4096343  13458929367
  推荐理由:百信旅店有公共电热淋浴间,还提供免费的宽带上网线,带上笔记本电脑可直接使用,是目前芭沟条件最好的旅馆。店主热情周到,还为客人义务导游,介绍小火车和芭蕉沟的相关。

  犍为芭沟天涯旅馆
  地址:四川乐山犍为县芭沟镇
  价格:标准间 80元/间;两人间 50元/间
  联系:0833-4096028  13700934047
  推荐理由:装修一新的天涯旅馆,可同时容纳30人住宿,全天24小时热水供应,馆内有电脑上网,每间有电视,全自动洗衣机等。

嘉阳小火车 当地饮食


 (东方红餐厅   作者:李超)

嘉阳矿区饮食
  嘉阳矿区主要有矿区一餐厅和二餐厅。
  一餐厅条件较好,全部为空调间,可同时容纳100人就餐。但就餐须预订。
  电话:0833-4092240
  嘉阳矿区二餐厅条件一般,有四个空调单间,最多可同时接待70人同时就餐。
  电话:0833-4092241

芭蕉沟饮食
  东方红餐厅 
  可同时容纳100人同时就餐,是2006年嘉阳集团公司专门重新装修的。50年代远近闻名的东方红食堂再度喜迎八方客。
  菜根香饭店 
  电话:0833-4096142
  另菜子坝、蜜蜂岩、老鹰嘴5号隧道景点等处农家可提供简单就餐等服务(需预约)
  菜子坝“C”形大转弯景点卫生所乡村医生杜厚坤可提供简单就餐 
  电话:13700935543 杜医生
  蜜蜂岩“人”字形掉头景点卫生所乡村医生陈建海可提供简单食宿,有11个床位 
  电话:13990693264 陈医生
  菜子坝和蜜蜂岩旁(可从菜子坝或蜜蜂岩走线游览)有犍为第一山寨水星寨,寨上王村长等处可预订农家饭(需预约)。
  电话:13438735831 王村长
  老鹰嘴5号隧道下方20米的农家是芭石铁路修道工小杨的家,可以提供简单农家饭。
  电话:0833-4958706 杨老板

嘉阳小火车 行程规划


(油菜花间的小火车    作者:小狼)
  嘉阳小火车运行在四川南部的小县城--犍为县,犍为县是乐山的第一大县和乐山出川入江的东大门,从隋代建县至今已有1400多年的历史,犍为县拥有犍为文庙、罗城古镇、嘉阳小火车等人文景观和同兴桫椤湖、泉水溶洞群、茉莉花基地等丰富的自然资源。
小火车旅游观光行程建议
  1.嘉阳小火车体验乘坐,坐小火车当次往返,时间约170分钟。只乘坐小火车,不下车观光,随班车往返。
  2.嘉阳小火车观光一日游:坐上午9:30的班车进芭蕉沟,到终点观光黄村井,芭蕉沟午餐,参观芭蕉沟老镇;
  3.嘉阳小火车观光两日游:坐下午2:00的班车进芭蕉沟,到终点观光黄村井,芭蕉沟晚餐,参观芭蕉沟老镇,宿芭蕉沟;第二天早上坐7点或10:30返程的火车返回。特别适合成都地区的游客。
  4.嘉阳小火车观光两日游:成都下来后先住嘉阳集团矿区,第二天早上坐6:00或9:30的班车进芭蕉沟,到终点观光黄村井,芭蕉沟午餐,参观芭蕉沟老镇;下午3:00返程的班车返回。

顺道游
  罗城古镇 
  位于犍为县东北部。由于地处边陲,曾是军事要地,镇西的营盘山就是当年的屯兵之地。时至今日,这条幸存下来的老街仍保留着部分明清时代老四川文化的人文风貌。
  地址:犍为县罗城镇

  同兴桫椤湖 
  距犍为县城17公里,位于犍为县同兴乡境内,景区的桫椤多达五十多万株,桫椤与湖水相伴,湖光山色相映成趣。
  地址:犍为县同兴乡桫椤湖
  电话:0833-4266100

嘉阳小火车 其他信息

拍摄小火车
  要想将小火车主要运行景点拍摄完,要3-4天,因小火车运行一天往返只有几次,要等很长时间,火车在运行中,一次在一个景点除数码机可连拍外,胶片机也只能拍一张,况拍数码就没机会拍胶片,等你换机时火车早开过了。
  拍摄景点主要选芭蕉沟、菜子坝、蜜蜂岩、老鹰嘴沿线,2月下旬至4月上旬是油菜花和桐子花盛开的季节,田园风光很美。

各种车型说明
  普通客车:当地人乘坐的交通班车,最原始的交通车厢,车厢小,烟尘多,摇晃严重,乘坐舒适性差,观光不好,不要说坐,有时连站都挤不进去。票价为单边座票5元,站票3元(站票一站一元,3元封顶),不售往返票,进去有座出来不一定能买到座票(因为山区里的人已经在里面买走了座票)。
  观光车厢:专门制作的观光车,一般不售站票,大玻璃通光性好,运行较平稳,噪音较小,烟尘能控制,特别适合观光,乘坐舒适性较好。随正班车加挂的观光车厢不在观光景点停车,只是在当地村民上下车的地方停车。
  观光专列:专门增开的游客观光列车,全部是观光车厢,大玻璃通光性能好,特别适合观光,乘坐舒适性较好。在主要的景点停车观光,让游客真正体会嘉阳小火车旅游的乐趣。
  普通观光专列:如果观光车厢不够用的时候,特殊的时段也会用普通的客车厢运行观光专列,车厢不一样,路上的耍法一样,价格更便宜,而且普通车厢组列更适宜于摄影创作。

特别说明
  无论是普通列车还是观光专列,它的运载能力都是有限的,因为它要爬上世界铁路最陡的一个坡(坡度为36.14‰,青藏铁路最大坡度只有20‰),所以普通客运列车最多只能拉9节小客车,观光专列最多只能拉4个大客车(6楼的两个机头就是拉不动才增加的),每列车的载客能力不到200人(其中观光专列限座150人)。所以游客多的时候买不票也是没有办法的,普通列车坐不下就只能开观光专列,但是观光专列没有人坐嘉阳集团也不会经常亏本去开,每年的100万元火车运行亏损政府又不给补贴。政府不准企业拆除铁路修公路,又不给企业亏损补贴,这就是保护和运行的一对矛盾,需要较长时期才能逐步解决,开发旅游缓解了亏损局面。

嘉阳小火车 当地视频

嘉阳小火车 出游参考

博主推荐:
  张火痴
  身背照相器材和大摄像机,一年至少有300天带着这两件物品在嘉阳小火车线上忙活、奔波,集采、编、播于一身,这就是嘉阳集团的张祥。他对小火车有着近乎痴迷的热爱,热衷于小火车的保护和宣传,为地方旅游作出了不少的贡献,被朋友们戏称为“火痴”。
  博客链接:http://blog.sina.com.cn/jyxhc

攻略制作队伍

顾问:嘉阳小火车旅游咨询电话旅游咨询电话:0833-4187999

摄影:张火痴 方发 老叶 雨萌 小狼

行者:刘乾坤

本攻略最后修订时间:2014年03月12日

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