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禾木,上帝的自留地——新疆布尔津县禾木村自助游攻略(2014年修订版)

发布时间:2008年09月09日 编辑:落日水溶金 访问:114630 评论:54条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 新疆 阿勒泰 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 微难
适合天数: 6天 花费预算: 2000元 适合时间: 9月 10月
可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 新疆 布尔津 禾木 喀纳斯 秋季 摄影 传统村落 ◎切换到图文完整版

  本村落已列入中华人民共和国四部局(住建部、文化部、财政部、文物局)共同组织评选的中国传统村落名录。远方网与国家四部局联合发起全国“保护性旅行”号召,倡议游客与旅游从业者保护各类遗产,实现文明负责任的旅行。点击查看更多细节 http://ctcl.likefar.com/ 

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  北京十点是新疆时间的八点,似乎凭空硬是多出两小时来,总是让人感觉很悠闲。恨不得要睡到自然醒再起床,慢悠悠的吃完早餐再晃去坐车,结果还是第一拨上车的乘客,这趟班车有二十二位游客,不知是因为大家都有节俭的好美德,还是因为如今的背包客渐渐的更加自主自助,独行或者三两个朋友同行,越来越少见到一群一批需要包专车走的。
  班车终于开动了,一出布尔津不久,车里就不时的有咔嚓咔嚓的声音。
  明知道拍不出啥来,但见了蓝得那样恬淡的天空,飘得那样写意的云丝,还是忍不住也拉开了窗玻璃。哪知外面下着极细的雨,风却不小,相机还没来得及伸出去,啪,镜头上一滴雨水,赶忙收回来擦拭干净。不甘心,正想再伸出去,啪啪,镜头上两滴雨水……
  到了景区买票口,车停下来的空隙,大家终于可以抓紧时间稳稳的拍两张了。一个小兵(年纪很小)却过来很热心的跟大家说,你们在这里拍完全是浪费,进村子里边的景色比这里好看得多了。于是大家充满期待,开始想象。似乎听见口水稀里哗啦的已汇成一条小溪。
  进到村子,已是下午三点。新疆时间却是正午时,太阳白花花的顶在头上。眯着眼站在树荫底下等待着行李从车顶卸下来。
  看看身边的这些木屋,这些栅栏,这些院门前竖着的大字招牌和院子里系着的疲倦而精瘦的马匹……


(晨秋诗话·禾木   作者:游摄459)
  这里的青年旅馆的卫生设施情况还是蛮不错的。阳光下宽敞的院子里,白色的床单随风飘扬,闪着洁净的光芒。
  那么好的阳光,让人忍不住也想把所有的东西都拿出来晾晒。
  鞋子,毛巾,背包。当然还有衣服。
  明晃晃的温暖阳光下,踮着脚尖,仰着头,眯着眼,抻展着绳子上的衣物。
  刚洗的衣物,散发着洗衣粉的清香。那是生活真实而朴素的味道。
  有那么一瞬间,我嗅到了安宁与踏实的气息。而这,正是一直以来自己内心里最最缺乏的。
  也就在此刻,似乎明白,迷恋旅行,在那不断的漂泊行走流动中,真正追寻的,不是美景,不是传说,不是神话与梦想,而是想让自己懂得怎样在平淡平实中安稳安心的生活,想让自己学会了解、体会并且珍惜,生活的真谛是平常。你能平静的接受所有的一切,不完整的一切,包括自己,然后无论身处何种境地,都能拥有一种无比坦然的安全感。

(美丽的禾木秋色  作者:狐狸视觉)
  禾木的下午是最闹腾游客最多的时候,一些旅行团是一天来回的,差不多中午进来转一圈,到下午五六点后就都出去了。
  直到傍晚,村子才渐渐的显现出原该有的安静。
  一间一间低矮的木屋房子,在逐渐变得慵懒温柔的阳光下将身影斜在一边,屋顶有炊烟缥缈。冬天雪大,斜斜的屋顶更容易让积雪滑落。然而,这样尖斜的屋顶却给看起来简单平常的小木屋凭添几分活泼个性。圈得很是随意的木栅栏旁,倦马才归,牛羊饱食懒步而回。
  此时,站在村子对面的山坡上眺望,净蓝的天空有洁白的云彩成丝成絮成花,一片片一朵朵次弟开放。群山逶迤,远远近近的全是金黄的白桦与墨绿的松林交相辉映,一条低调而魅力十足的河流,安静淡泊的缓缓穿过。整个村子被这一切包围,真的就像是神灵开天辟地之时特意私藏这么一片土地。自然天成,宁静安详。
  翌日清晨,复又来到这里,看晨雾中这一切是怎样的又多了几分仙境的质气。
  趁太阳热情起来之前,再回来到旅馆院子中的趟椅上晒太阳。闭上眼,想把自己也烘上昨夜厚厚暖暖的被子里太阳的香。
  生命蛮美好。充满爱的生命更美好。
  尽情想象,尽情飞翔。
  (文字作者:truemelh)


禾木羊群


光影禾木   作者:狐狸视觉


乡村秋日景色


禾木骑马人


禾木晨景


图瓦木屋前的图瓦小朋友


牧牛归来

禾木景点介绍


(色彩禾木   作者:游摄459)
  禾木,是布尔津县的一个乡,居民主要是图瓦蒙古族和哈萨克族,喀纳斯村过去归属禾木管辖,但是自从大喀纳斯地区成为旅游区后,禾木就变成大喀纳斯景区的一部分了。
  在旅游部门的大喀纳斯的概念中,喀纳斯湖是其核心,禾木和白哈巴是它的两翼,双湖和白湖、友谊峰是它的后院;在徒步者的心目中,禾木是贾登峪――禾木――喀纳斯经典徒步线路的中点;在旅行者的心目中,禾木是大喀纳斯地区能够静静地待几天,发呆和摄影的地方。如今,这个山谷中的村落中已经遍布小旅店,游人也渐渐地多了起来。
  禾木是一个开阔的盆地,如果有时间,可以沿河而上,寻找禾木河的源头,或者向东到吉克普林大草原,都是很诱人的想法。清晨,当阳光洒满禾木村落,周围雾气腾腾,牛羊在路边穿行,那是禾木最美的时候。

  景点类型:草原 地貌 古城 街道 民居 探险
  门票信息:60元/人,另外,喀纳斯大景区每年10月10日至次年5月10日为冬季旅游期,喀纳斯下湖口、禾木景区、白哈巴景区三地实行一票通,票价为150元/人。
  开放时间:全天
  景点地址:新疆北部布尔津县境内喀纳斯湖大约70公里
  景区电话:0906-6524464

  喀纳斯已经比较纷扰了,所以不如索性多走一点路到阿勒泰的更深处,放弃汽车,打马骑行,走在天堂般的景观当中。
  金色的草原,雪白的桦木,羊群马群从山坡走过,赶羊人遥远的皮鞭和微笑,背景是洁白的雪山。
  阿勒泰地区最大的魅力来自于其独有的地理优势:雪山、草地、森林,一个都不少,而且水草肥美,不缺牛羊。
  喀纳斯的图瓦人其实已经搬走了,那里只有披着图瓦族衣服的表演者,生活不是用来表演的,尽管很多人想参观。所以当你走到禾木这个上帝给图瓦人的自留地的时候,请不要过度打扰他们。
  拍照的时候记得给他们邮寄照片,特别是那些孩子。用自己的茶叶、糖果或者饼干去换取一些他们的奶酪、酸奶疙瘩。在这些地方,不要把自己当作一个旅人,也许商人更好一些,交换的过程,双方同时也收获情谊。
  9月-10月,去这里你可以看到图片中的景色,不过早晚已经很冷了,注意多带点棉衣。

摄影在禾木
  禾木是摄影的天堂,这里没有喀纳斯熙熙攘攘的人群,禾木河、木屋、吉克普林草原、还有这里的图瓦人、哈萨克人为摄影爱好者提供了无尽的素材。

  1. 看日出
  在西南侧山坡看,其实就是出了村口往山上走就是了,你会看到一大队长枪短炮占领了那个山头的。7点起床,赶快穿衣爬上山,时间就差不多了。太阳应该是9点左右出来的。据说8点是光线最好的时候。

  2. 村口的树林
  最漂亮是傍晚的时候,牧归的牛羊会自动自觉从那里进村回家。如果刚好碰上一阵大风,黄叶随风飘扬的景象会让你迷醉。而且那里斜阳照着的时候叶子最为金黄。

  3. 木桥,禾木河一带
  坐在禾木河旁边闲坐是很爽的事情,呵呵。而木桥上有时会有居民钓鱼的,很难想象怎么在这么清又这么急的河里也可以钓到鱼。

  4. 村后山坡的白桦林
  站在那里随便照一张都像画一样。

  5. 村里闲逛
  禾木的圆木小屋都很有特色,都是一根一根大圆木垒起来的,上面还标有标号呢。禾木的狗都很漂亮,随便一只都有冠军相哦,呵呵。而且随处逛还有可能看到钉马蹄。在这里慢慢逛,可以发现好多很有趣的事物。简单的生活是最美好的。

禾木出游地图


禾木旅游交通示意图


禾木徒步摄影线路图

禾木当地交通


(去禾木的路上  作者:树虫)
飞机
  阿勒泰有民用机场,不过平时只开通与乌鲁木齐之间的航班,航程一个小时,最多旺季开通与伊犁之间的航班。所以其他城市要乘飞机只能先到乌鲁木齐,然后转乘去阿勒泰的航班,再包车前往禾木。阿勒泰机场问讯电话:0906-2826116

火车
  阿勒泰地区没有铁路,乘坐火车只能先到乌鲁木齐,然后再班车或包车前往。
  查询到乌鲁木齐火车时刻以及在线购买火车票 http://www.likefar.com/train.html

公路
  从乌鲁木齐到阿勒泰地区近700公里道路大部分穿行于荒漠、戈壁、草原中,乘坐班车车程超越15小时。经常会有几百里无人区,如果赶上恶劣气候道路很可能受到影响,所以情有一定心理准备。另外出发前带一定干粮、水以及衣物,以备不时之需。

内部交通
  禾木距离布尔津170公里,在离开布尔津100多公里的一个地方,有一个牌子写着“距离喀纳斯48公里”,“距离禾木50公里”,这里就是进入禾木的路口,这个路口到贾登峪约20公里。50公里的山路全部为柏油路,但是只有一车半的宽度,会车比较危险。在距离禾木约20公里的喀纳斯河大桥边,有收费站,门票60元,从2007年7月20日起,所有外来车辆不得进入禾木,必须换成区间车,区间车票价120元(往返)。
  进入禾木的第二条道路就是贾登峪到禾木的徒步路线,徒步距离约32公里。这也是过去进入禾木的汽车道路,只有2020这样的越野车才有可能通行。据说有一次阿勒泰的旅游局长在这条道路上考察,沿途遇到了200多位背包徒步旅行者,局长有什么感受不得而知,但是从那以后,似乎喀纳斯对于背包客开始变得不太宽容了。如果要一天的时间走完贾登峪到禾木的路程,需要住在贾登峪,可以找沙依兰,他们家有毡房,电话:13070333389,也可以找他租马。
  从布尔津有班车进入禾木,票价60元,大车(30座)每天早上10点从布尔津开车,下午4点30从禾木返回;小车(20座)每天早上10点从禾木开车,下午4点30从布尔津返回;旺季这个车上背包客多,可以让布尔津小白羊驿站帮助预定座位。电话:0906-6528966

禾木当地住宿

  禾木有上百家的小旅店,但现在想找到真正当地人开的已经很难了,绝大多数旅店是山下的生意人开的。一般木屋多人间每个床位30元左右。

  布尔津小白羊驴友驿站
  又名小羊军团布尔津小白羊驴友驿站,是小羊军团设在大喀纳斯地区(布尔津、喀纳斯、禾木、白哈巴)的"自助旅行资讯与服务中心"。在这里,驴友可以了解到最新最全的大喀纳斯地区自助旅行信息,买到15元的韩国扁气罐、20多元的防潮垫,租到背包和睡袋,订到上山的班车票、自助洗衣等等。小白羊驿站的掌门人是新疆阿勒泰地区资深户外人王志飞先生,他是经过国家登山协会系统的培训,具有户外指导员和攀岩教练员资质的驴友,他熟悉喀纳斯的各条徒步线路,主要任务是为背包客提供各种免费的咨询服务,陪大家喝啤酒。
  地址:阿勒泰市布尔津县胜利路红顶小别墅区 
  联系:0906-6528966
  价格:普通多人间  40元/床
  详细介绍:http://www.likefar.com/inn/402/

  新疆阿拉木汗禾木客栈
  客栈专为喀纳斯冬季旅游设立,是喀纳斯冬季旅游的禾木宿留地。是新疆阿勒泰地区布尔津县旅游局冬季旅游定点接待点。客栈位于布尔津县喀纳斯禾木乡人民政府所在地,禾木村,距离布尔津县城180公里,距离阿拉木汗冲乎尔(冬窝子)客栈100公里,距离贾登峪35公里,距离喀纳斯湖35公里,距离也麦盖提草原15公里,距离美丽峰10公里。
  地址:新疆布尔津县喀纳斯禾木乡禾木村
  联系:13579848275
  价格:普通间 20元/人/床
  详细介绍:http://www.likefar.com/inn/394/

  布尔津禾木青年旅舍
  旅舍位于布尔津县禾木乡卫生院前100米处,距景区区间车停车场50米,距禾木乡大桥150米处,交通便利,禾木青年旅舍内设标间、普间、多人间,餐厅、商店、沐浴式男女浴室、卫星电话、暖气、刻录光盘,倒换数据,租马,包车等一条龙服务,一次性可容纳60人/次,入住禾木青年旅舍的朋友,观看篝火晚会门票可享受5折优惠。
  地址:新疆布尔津县禾木乡卫生院前100米处(距河边大桥150米)
  联系:13999785261   13999789244
  价格:普通双人间  40元/间

禾木当地饮食

  禾木吃饭较贵,街上基本没有饭馆,一般是住在那里吃在哪里。一盘素菜至少10元,一切都按照山下的2倍左右计算。村里有几个小商店,出售啤酒、蔬菜甚至西瓜。

禾木行程规划

  禾木是贾登峪-禾木-喀纳斯徒步的中点,绝大多数徒步者从贾登峪花费1天(骑马)或者2天(徒步)的时间到达禾木,途中他们可能住宿在喀纳斯河——禾木河三角洲,那里有营业的毡房。在禾木或者住一晚上,或者住两天,然后从这里花2天的时间到达喀纳斯,骑马或者徒步都是一样的时间,途中住在大阪下的小木屋或旁边的毡房里。
  以禾木为中心,还可以向东进入吉克普林草原,向北溯禾木河而上,实施禾木附近的环形穿越。
  禾木有一个官方的马队,可以骑马在村里转转,或者去美丽峰――禾木旁边的一个山峰。如果从禾木去喀纳斯,骑马也需要两天时间,一匹马一天150元,马夫劳务费一天50元,同时马夫使用的马也需要付钱,每4-5匹马得配备一名马夫。
  去禾木最好的选择是在乌鲁木齐参加一个散客团,然后跟他们协商到喀纳斯脱团多玩几天跟下一个团回乌鲁木齐。在喀纳斯租用当地人的马深入阿勒泰到禾木,来回两天就可以。

  远方网联合小羊军团自助游线路推荐
  徒步骑马摄影之旅: 布尔津——贾登峪——禾木——黑湖——喀纳斯
  用时:6天
  描述:禾木一向是背包客向往的地方,那里的晨雾、木屋、山顶草原,还有清澈的禾木河,令人心醉;当然,更让人陶醉的是贾登峪-禾木梦幻般的徒步线路,这里是中国十大经典徒步线路之一,也是其中最精彩的一段。
  具体安排及费用说明:http://www.xyjt.info/Article/ShowArticle.asp?ArticleID=9055

禾木其他信息

  图瓦人及图瓦人村落
  在遥远的新疆布尔津县,阿尔泰山深处的喀纳斯湖区,生活着大约两千名图瓦人。图瓦人即是晚清《新疆图志》所记载的“乌梁海”人,世代以放牧、狩猎为生,居深山密林,沿袭传统的生活方式。有学者认为,他们是成吉思汗西征时遗留的士兵的后裔;也有人认为,图瓦人的祖先是五百年前从西伯利亚迁徙而来,与现今俄罗斯图瓦共和国的图瓦人属同一民族。

 

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  4、尊重自己的选择,尊重传统村落与现代生活的区别;
  5、尊重旅行,敬惟慎独。
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禾木当地视频


北疆喀纳斯、禾木、五彩滩之旅

禾木出游参考

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