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在南太行之上听高山流水——2012年山西省陵川县王莽岭自助游攻略

发布时间:2012年08月30日 编辑:大元 访问:82937 评论:44条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 山西 晋城 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 微难
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可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 王莽岭 ◎切换到图文完整版


(王莽岭日出云海  作者:原原的老豆)
  过去我常常以为川西高原青藏高原才有跌宕起伏的山川之美,没想在一马平川的中原大地,太行山高耸入云,美景奇观让人大跌眼镜。早就听说游太行,不可不到王莽岭。王莽岭就是太行山精华浓缩的一朵奇葩,像一尊华丽的王冠端放在太行云端之巅,听高水流水,乘缥缈虚无,可高台论剑,可俯瞰人间。
  清晨,天有些阴。景区张主任说最近连续降雨,沟底的瀑布已经很有些气势。从县城东行逐渐进入南太行深处,公路蜿蜒而上。沿途村落和农田越来越少。封山育林的山区植被在逐渐恢复。这里位于陵川县城以东100公里,是晋豫交界处。王莽岭景区总面积上百平方公里,现在开放的是精华部分。据说有户外探险爱好者从河南上山,一路徒步走到山顶,需要至少1天时间。
  王莽岭所在的南太行山是华北平原和黄土高原的分界线,断层地质带上形成的地质奇观。有北方山脉的雄浑,又有南方山区的清秀一面。在地质学界,这里是嶂石岩地貌的典型地区。王莽岭所在的山区北面深入壶关等地,东和南延伸到河南境内,著名的云台山就是另外一个著名景观。王莽岭一带山峰最高1665米。由于断层的阶梯状态,从山顶到山谷有多个递进式断崖,每个断崖之间是或宽或窄的过渡区,往往这里植被茂密,也是人类生产生活的走廊。我们沿徒步线路继续前行,走过一段山腰部位,然后再次翻上山脊。人工道路最窄处只能2人错身,一边是石壁,一边是悬崖。在很多险峻地段的栏杆上写着"严禁跨越栏杆"的字牌。当时我看了感觉这样写没有实际意义,如果跨出栏杆就是死路一条,一般人不会这样做。后来才知道王莽岭景区曾发生过女大学生失落悬崖的案例。从那以后,景区在所有危险位置上都建立了警示牌。原来这牌子是用生命换来的。这也再次提醒人们,外出探险不要冒险,适可而止,旅行才能顺利。


 (重山叠嶂的奇峰  作者:草堂)

   景区里设置了一些景点解释牌。如龙脉龛、刘秀跳、隐仙崖等。为了应和王莽追刘秀的传说,其实大可不必。王莽岭景区完全可以在地质学上大作文章。《中国国家地理》杂志2011年5月号的专题太行山,重点就在地质构造上,多处提到王莽岭景区,这样的免费宣传很给力。
  山脊上出现很多奇形怪状的石头,上面还有很多窟窿。专家考察,这些石头是石灰岩层,有几亿年的历史,常年自然侵蚀成了这样的百变摸样。有一处看上去酷似一峰匍匐在地的骆驼。还有些地方出现了层叠的页岩,景区给命名为石库天书,这些都是地理学上的重要标志。南太行山的雄伟绝险,重要原因是山顶的石灰岩和下面的嶂石岩被侵蚀以后的结果。经过一段山顶上的缓坡松林,到了徒步线路的终点,这里也是索道的终点。山顶是个超大平台,新建了餐厅和宾馆。这里是群山环绕的中心,附近山峰好像都矮了半截,层层叠叠的山看不到边,好像万马奔腾的军阵,气势宏大。山顶是溶岩地貌区域,刚才看到的各类奇怪的石头都是这类地质条件下造就的。


(王莽岭山顶的台阶  作者:色影镜界)
   下午,山间谷地里依然云雾缭绕。王莽岭的云是一大胜景。云雾最大时,周围的山峰好似海上仙山一般。有的宣传语中称这里是太行至尊。如果说张家界黄狮寨的万峰云海,是带有南方秀丽的雄奇,王莽岭上则完全是北国豪情。山顶海拔比较高,地上到处是一种长杆、顶端生长着圆茸球的植物。它是王莽岭植物群落里的优势种。
   为保证安全,王莽龄内部交通都由景区负责,外部车辆严禁上山。从山顶排队等候去著名的挂壁公路的人很多。经过不断改进,挂壁公路的条件比最初好了许多,车子开过还形成很大的气流,风声在四周回响,好似车子在一条长长的时光隧道中穿行。到了坡底,挂壁公路的终点是以前与世隔绝的锡崖沟村。出村继续南行是锡崖沟最南端、山西和河南交界处。王莽龄景区南大门外的空地上,停着几辆对面河南辉县回龙景区的班车。也就是说,客人可以不回山西,继续去河南旅行。回头看,刚才一览众山小的王莽岭山顶就在自己头上,三面山体的红色岩石边缘是笔直的断崖,下切几百米直到谷底,那里有一条水流从山根处的裂缝直泻而下,应该就来自沟里的瀑布。这处宏大的景观是红岩大峡谷,被选为2011年5月号《中国国家地理》杂志的封面图片。
  河南一侧,也有同样的红色岩石断崖,一条水流直接从最高处倾泻而下,直落几百米砸向悬崖底部。底部的水雾中有些小黑点在移动,透过镜头,我惊奇的发现,那是一位羊倌和他的黑羊群在赶路途径这里。王莽岭一带尽管险峻无比,依然养育了一方辛勤劳作的人民。
     (文字作者: traveler)


锡崖沟瀑布  作者:晋芳


巍巍王莽岭 作者:草堂


好汉坡108层台阶建在高山之上  作者:林中漫步


王莽岭壮观河山  作者:晋芳


王莽岭的植被丰富 作者:林中漫步


王莽岭山顶  作者:喜欢吃糖的人

日照云海 作者:海里的鱼


峡谷 作者:秋风劲

当地人民在崖壁上开凿出蜿蜒道路  作者:胡柚柚

尽管险峻无比,依然养育了一方人民  作者:秋风劲

王莽岭落日  作者:花无缺

云海、日出和奇峰是王莽岭的特色  作者:谁也唐风


王莽岭秋日光景  作者:佚名


秋季,行走在王莽岭栈道上  作者:佚名


高耸的山脉  作者:海里的鱼


柔美的光线映衬于山峦云海中  作者:网管

王莽岭景点介绍


(王莽岭是晋豫的界山  作者:mujie)
  王莽岭是陵川与河南辉县的界山。山之东崖,俗称天柱关,由高低错落的56个山峰组成。大者,峰顶可跑马,小者状如笔尖耸立,巍峨峥嵘。山南部千仞峭壁,如一石削成,"千峰争攒聚,万壑绝凌历"。北部巍岩相迭,青莲秀出,群峰连绵。仰瞰之间,怪石嶙峋,浓绿浅翠,流泉飞瀑。晴日,千奇百怪的峰岩,青中带紫,近看山形勾勒分明,远眺如画中写意,朦胧如幻。王莽岭壮观之处,莫过于日出。每逢晴日,峰峦沉浸在茫茫云海中,一轮红日冉冉升起,一时间霞光万道,群山尽染,一如泰顶。

  观日台
  观日台位于王莽岭东侧,从景区接待处往东走不远即到,这里云海苍茫,宛如大海之上的汹涌波涛,每日凌晨三四点钟,阳光从茫茫云海之中喷薄而出,十分壮观,是拍摄日出的最佳境地。

  勒马崖
  相传王莽骑马路经此地,宝马突然前蹄腾空,将王莽重重的摔下马来,王莽正要发怒,低头一看,不由倒吸一口冷气,马蹄下一石如刀劈一般直插于万丈深渊之中,幸得宝马相救,王莽才免遭此难。勒马崖的四周群山高耸,苍松翠柏挺拔傲立,远处山峦耸立于茫茫云海之中,忽隐忽现,犹如仙境一般。是拍摄崇山峻岭和云海的好地方。

  石库兵书
  为一大群风化的岩石,造型奇特,千姿百态,相传为王莽将士遗弃的兵书,横观竖看,形态各不相同。

  姊妹峰
  为两座犹如笔尖耸立的削拔山峰,两峰相依,犹如姊妹一般,因而得名,姊妹峰下便是河南的辉县,峰下的山脉多隐于云雾之中。站在峰口,犹如天境一般。

  刘秀城山
  在王莽岭南,有刘秀城山遥遥相峙。相传汉刘秀受王莽之逼,逃到此地,依托四周悬崖绝壁的天险与王莽抗衡,两山一沟相隔,沟名"城壕",仅有一条小路可通山顶,有"一人当关、万夫莫开"之险。现在山顶尚有房基痕迹和残砖败瓦,是刘秀城寨之遗迹,东南有一崎岖小道可通河南,名叫"掰破梯",相传刘秀被围时,曾对天祈祷,山遂自行掰开,刘秀顺此路逃往河南。

周边景点
  锡崖沟
  锡崖沟位于王莽岭景区南端四周落差1000多米的深谷之中,四面环山。该区山陡沟深,地势险恶,峭壁环列,由于天险阻隔,沟中二百户人家几乎与世陷于隔绝,千百年来自生自灭。1962年,沟里人不甘闭塞,向大山宣战,历时三十年,两代人在村西绝壁上凿出一条长7.5公里的挂壁公路,开创了中国乡村筑路史上的奇迹,锡崖挂壁公路被称为世界奇观。
  地址:山西省晋城陵川县城60公里的古郊乡东端晋豫两省交界处

  棋子山
  棋子山,又名谋棋山,山势平缓,主峰海拨1488米。山上松树成林,山清水秀,风景优美。经国家有关部门考察论证,陵川棋子山为中国围棋发源地。棋子山方圆数十里之内,酷似班固《奕指》及《围棋辞典》所称的天然棋石俯拾即是。该区主要景点有箕子洞和象天枰。箕子洞相传是围棋鼻祖商代箕子推演天文、占卦卜筮、谋棋消闲之所。洞内岩石上有一处极似围棋棋盘线条的痕迹并有像围棋棋子印了去的凹痕。
  地址:山西省陵川县城10公里的侯庄乡东北

  马武寨 
  马武寨坐落在四周百里皆为绝壁的马武山中。其前后左右山环岭绕,地势奇险,易守难攻。寨中原建有金銮殿、梳妆楼、望景楼、宰官楼等以及东、两、南、北四大寨门,还设有菜园、肉翁、盐场、火房、瓦铺、教场、赶羊场等,故有马武京寨之称。马武寨自古交通不便,长期闭塞造成了此地原始气息很浓,是难得的一处自然生态园。据传东汉名将马武曾在此屯兵。有遗址。此地山上棘无刺,池中青蛙不鸣。相传为光武帝刘秀因避王莽追赶,曾被棘牵衣而命去刺,因厌蛙声聒噪而禁蛙鸣。此乃神话,但棘无刺,蛙不鸣属实。
  地址:山西省陵川县东50公里处。

王莽岭出游地图


王莽岭交通示意图

王莽岭景区地图

王莽岭当地交通

  去陵川的交通比较便利,乘火车到长治市或晋城市均可,再换乘汽车可直达陵川县城。在陵川县城换乘开往王莽岭景区的班车可直达山顶景区管理处。而且近期,高陵高速(高新高速山西段)正式通车运营,王莽岭景区实现了高速直达,市区至王莽岭景区的行车时间由两个半小时缩短至一个小时,结束了多年来交通不便制约景区发展的历史。

  自驾:
  北京方向:北京(京珠高速)-河南辉县(辉陵二级公路)-陵川-景区;
  天津方向:天津-保定-邯郸(高速)-长治长陵二级公路-陵川-景区;
  西安方向:西安(一级公路、风运高速)-山西运城-阳城(阳晋高速)-晋城(晋陵一级公路)-陵川-景区;
  郑州方向:郑州(京珠高速)-焦作(焦晋高速)-晋城(晋陵一级公路)-陵川-景区;

  铁路:
  晋城火车站,以发往商丘、太原、连云港东、北京南、长治北、新乡6地的列车为主,各车次每天一趟,乘坐方便。
  晋城市火车站问询处电话:0356-2235102

  公路:
  从陵川县城汽车站每天前半天每隔一个小时有直达王莽岭景区的乡村巴士,将近60公里,车程1个半小时,票价12元/人。王莽岭景区回陵川县城的车也只有上午有,所以得在景区入住一晚。景区巴士小交通20元/人,从山脚锡崖沟送到山顶王莽岭景区。
  晋城境内公路较为发达,207国道穿境而过,而晋焦、长晋、晋阳高速公路的通车更方便人们来往晋城。
  晋城客运中心站地址:泽州东路
  晋城省运汽车站地址:晋回路4号
  晋城市运汽车站地址:红星街西段161号

王莽岭当地住宿

  王莽岭景区内设施齐全,住宿服务已十分成熟,但王莽岭大多是新建的高档的宾馆,不仅价格昂贵且潮湿,建议在山下的锡崖沟村住宿,当地农家比较便宜。农家旅馆10-25元/人;小旅店10-30元/人,节假日略长。推荐住宿:

  锡崖沟农家乐
  推荐理由:基础设施相对完善,可以洗澡,有地道的农家菜可招待。老板老赵会热情提供游客一些实用信息。
  价格:15元一个床位,带卫生间标间80元/间。
  电话:03566875561 13835690773
  地址:锡崖沟村内

王莽岭当地饮食

  当地物产不多,在春季,村民以山上自采的野菜和菌类为主要蔬菜,外进蔬菜价格较贵。除鸡蛋之外,动物食品价格高昂。一只鸡约40元。当地没什么特别的饮食,均是地道的农家菜。大多数游客都会选择在住宿的农家乐解决饮食,一般以人均计价。推荐饮食:

  锡崖沟农家乐
  推荐理由:基础设施相对完善,有地道的农家菜可招待。
  价格:18元/人
  电话:03566875561 13835690773
  地址:锡崖沟村内

特色小吃
  虽然王莽岭景区内特色小吃不多,但晋城小吃特别丰富,除了最著名的烧大葱,还有晋城炒凉粉、木耳圪贝、 酸菜黑圪条、高平烧豆腐、铺层馍馍、烧猪肝、阳城高米庄馍、羊肉火烧 、李圪抓、转面、馋酥等。

  烧大葱
  相传慈禧太后西逃时路经泽州(今晋城),当地官员隆重设宴招待。但在开宴时,厨师发现慌乱之中少做了一道菜。为了免遭杀身之祸,厨师急中生智,马上把菜案上的巴公大葱拿来一把,几刀切碎,烧成一道菜,端了上去,叫做烧大葱。谁知慈禧品尝后,认为满桌菜中数这道菜最有味道。传说归传说,慈禧西逃时并未经过晋城,但烧大葱作为当地一道名菜,口感香软不腻,却一直流传至今。

  晋城炒凉粉
  炒凉粉是晋城民间传统风味小吃,至今已有100多年的历史。先将凉粉切成长宽各3-4厘米、厚约1厘米的方块,放置待用。锅内放少量食油,烧热后将切好的凉粉块入锅翻炒。再将醋汁蒜沫浇入,加盖,待蒜、醋味入里后出锅。口感软嫩,香辣可口。

  李圪抓
  全名羊肉李圪抓,是沁水风味小吃中的一朵奇葩。相传一个姓李的牧羊人喜吃羊肉包子,食多生厌,他就突发奇想,借来邻居做煎饼的鏊子,想把包子用油煎一下,可包子皮厚难熟,他就在手上抹了点油,把包子皮拽薄,这样做成后油而不腻,别有风味。 

  酸菜黑圪条
  当地人又叫浆水菜黑圪条,是晋城的一种地方名吃。旧时当地白面紧缺,人们为调剂生活,用白面包高梁面擀成面条,又因晋城酸菜腌得好,用酸菜作卤配以黑圪条。撒上香菜、芝麻等。口味酸香辣俱全,高梁面特有香味胜似精米白面,越吃越香。久之,成为晋城一种地方大众化名吃。

当地特产
  晋城特产山楂"泽州红",肉味醇、酸甜多胶质、耐贮藏,具有较高的药用价值,此外山上多灵芝、何首乌等药材,价格相当便宜。

王莽岭行程规划

  如果可能的话,可先到河南林州市,入太行大峡谷景区游览两天,再向南到王莽岭-锡崖沟景区,随后花一天时间游览河南境内与锡崖沟景区毗邻的回龙景区,欣赏气势宏大的断裂谷风光,最后南下到云台山国家地质公园游览两天。如此约需时10日,可将太行胜境一网打尽。若只想在王莽岭游览,则需两天。

推荐王莽岭二日游线路
  D1:第一天游览王莽岭的景点,观日台、刘秀跳、好汉坡、姐妹峰、勒马崖等,看云海、奇峰、松涛、挂壁公路等奇观景象,将自己置于崇山峻岭中,感受南太行雄风。
  D2:王莽岭壮观之处,莫过于日出。早起观日出,游览锡崖沟,观挂壁公路、锡崖沟大瀑布,惊叹"锡崖沟精神"的同时,感受沟里人的淳朴民风及田园风光。若还有时间可继续游红岩大峡谷。

王莽岭其他信息

  关于王莽岭景区的神话和传说比较多,共有五大传说。相传这里是远古神话传说《愚公移山》的发生地;是道家始祖老子西行路过并创作《道德经》的地方;是新朝皇帝王莽和汉光武帝刘秀斗智斗勇的古战场;是愈伯牙创作古代十大名曲《高山流水》的地方;是唐代大诗人白居易经羊肠坂登太行赋诗的地方。

  王莽追刘秀的传说
  这里,我们又必须给大家介绍一下王莽其人。王莽于公元前八年任大司马,辅政十六年,这段时期是西汉末年极端腐败、没落、混乱的年代。他辅佐的四位皇帝,或昏庸无能,或荒淫无度,或年幼无知,使得政局动荡,礼崩乐坏,加上天灾不断,更使百姓苦不堪言,边塞战事频起,农民起义风起云涌。但王莽象周公一般,制礼作乐,励精图治,虽无力回天,却赢得了朝廷上下的共识,王莽称帝势在必行。于是乎,力主王莽登基的人大造王莽乃真命天子的舆论,宣称在龟鸵山(王莽岭)发现一龙脉神石,天书四字"王莽登基"。
  于是王莽便于公元八年即位称帝,改国号为新。后来,刘秀率大军到此以毁坏王莽的龙脉石,王莽亲率大军赶来,演义出王莽赶刘秀的故事。说当年王莽追刘秀追到一处悬崖,刘秀纵身跳了过去,跳到对面;王莽一看,底下万丈深渊,若跳不到对面,岂不粉身碎骨。于是刘秀逃脱了,后来当了皇帝。

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摄影:秋风劲、海里的鱼、原原的老豆、喜欢吃糖的人、晋芳

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