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放逐在呼伦贝尔大草原——2009年内蒙古呼伦贝尔自助游攻略

发布时间:2009年06月19日 编辑:落日水溶金 访问:51656 评论:103条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 内蒙古 呼伦贝尔 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 轻松
适合天数: 7天 花费预算: 5000元 适合时间: 6月 7月 8月 9月
可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 草原 内蒙古 骑马 呼伦贝尔 ◎切换到图文完整版


(夏季牧羊  作者:额尔古纳人)
  有一片蓝天任云蒸霞蔚!有一片净土任马儿骋情纵意!有一片草原天鹅飞来都不想回……
  这就是鲜花遍地、毡房簇簇、奶茶飘香的世界第三大草原,也是中国最美的草原——呼伦贝尔大草原。
  呼伦贝尔地处祖国北疆,位于内蒙古东北部,是中国优秀旅游城市。总面积25.3万平方公里,相当于山东、江苏两省面积的总和。呼伦贝尔市以其古迹的民族性、草原的垄断性、森林的天然性、野生动植物的珍奇性和民族的独特性,被国家列为全国六大景区之一,是我国北疆重要的生态屏障。
  水草丰美的草原、松涛激荡的大兴安岭林海、纵横交错的河流、星罗棋布的湖泊组成了一幅绚美多彩的画卷。

  6月底至7月底,呼伦贝尔草原正是牧草茂盛的时候,可以饱览草原风景,尽情纵马奔驰。到8月初,牧民就已开始收割牧草为过冬做准备了, 草原也开始发黄。进入9月,此时开始草原逐渐展现秋景,尤其是9月中旬开始,白桦林叶子变黄,美景无限。而且9月时天气不冷不热,游客也不太多。11月至次年2月中旬则是冰雪游的最佳时节。
 

 用镜头“倾听”蒙古长调      作者:巴特


 陈巴尔虎旗草原   作者:草原之子


呼伦贝尔风光   作者:记录


草原油菜花    作者:江山潘


冬日呼伦贝尔     作者:巴特

呼伦贝尔景点介绍


(草原风情     作者:巴特)
  考虑到时间限制,本攻略以一个星期为限来安排行,行程所及基本上在哈尔滨—满洲里一线,其南、其北的阿尔山、额尔古纳、鄂伦春等地的一些景点均未列入。如在行程上临时有变,可自己另外安排。
  阿尔山攻略参考:云卷云舒下的春去秋来——内蒙古阿尔山自助游攻略  http://www.likefar.com/routedetail.cfm/argu/cid,13-id,1511

  以下介绍本攻略所涉及的主要景点

一、海拉尔 

  1、地理 
  海拉尔区位于呼伦贝尔盟的中部,东临大兴安岭,是呼伦贝尔市政府所在地,呼伦贝尔市的政治、经济、文化中心,也是到达呼伦贝尔大草原的必经之地,素有“草原明珠”之称。海拉尔周边地区景致极佳,以草原、湖泊、冰雪风光为主要的旅游景观。这座草原城市三面环山,伊敏河穿过市区,把城市分成河东河西两部分。 
  由于消费水平不高,在海拉尔不必花很多钱就可以住到很不错的宾馆房间。不推荐住在小旅馆,尤其是火车站附近的一些小旅馆。
 
  2、海拉尔西山国家森林公园 
  位于城区西部区政府后面的西山上,早在清代,这里就被列为呼伦贝尔八景之一——沙埠古松,也是我国唯一以樟子松为主体的国家级森林公园。门票10元。

  3、侵华日军海拉尔要塞北山遗址 
  作为一个中国人,来到呼伦贝尔,这里你一定要去!此处并无旖旎的自然风光,却有着地狱般的阴森,这里是中华民族苦难历程的一个片断。 
  目前,海拉尔已开发的北山要塞遗址,是当年侵华日军所建筑垒地堡的地下核心部分,通道总长度为4000多米,面积为5000平方米。1945年8月18日,驻守在北山要塞的日军接到关东军的投降命令,向苏军投降,苏军将地下工事内粮食、弹药等物资运走,将地面的碉堡、永备火力点及地下工事入口全部用炸药炸坏。如今,北山阵地地面工事虽然已经破坏殆尽,但是地下部分仍基本保存完好,成为呼伦贝尔市的爱国主义教育基地。 
  门票20元,含讲解费。从城区乘5路公共汽车,到终点“铁收审站”下车。

  4、万人坑 
  海拉尔要塞工程结束时,为了保密,日本鬼子将劳工分批分期集体枪杀、活埋,万人坑的白骨,实际上的数量超过万人。
  到达万人坑可乘坐海拉尔去往拉布大林、陈旗、满洲里方面的长途汽车,告诉司机在过了“坝后”那个大坡的加油站下车,下车后加油站西边正对着的那个沙包就是当年的万人坑了,距路边不到1000米。


二、满洲里 

  1、市内 
  地处呼伦贝尔地区西部的满洲里市被誉为“亚洲之窗”,是中国北方最大的陆路口岸。满洲里国门已经是满洲里的标志了,也是游客到满洲里必去之处,位于满洲里市西部中俄边境处我方一侧,于1989年建成。 
  可去五道街乘公车(1元/人)去国门。车子只到中俄贸易市场。下车后往前走一段路就是国门,门票20元。国门这边的草原和建筑非常漂亮。 
  另外,满洲里街头行色匆匆的俄罗斯人也是此地一道特别的风景线。 
  满洲里是口岸城市,外来人口较多,应选较好的宾馆住宿。 


 (海拉尔   作者:太兴山)

  2、呼伦湖 
  呼伦湖,当地人称达赉湖,方圆八百里,是中国第五大湖泊,内蒙古第一大湖。其鸟类资源丰富,在赏鸟之余,呼伦湖日出也是一道不可不看的风景。 
  呼伦湖水生动物丰富,又是我国北方数千里之外唯一的大泽,水域宽广,沼泽湿地连绵不断,草原辽阔,食饵丰富,鸟类栖息环境很好,因此成为我国东部内陆鸟类迁徙的重要通道,也是观鸟的好地方。 
  目前达赉湖的主要旅游区就是湖畔的小河口旅游区,达赉湖饭店的全鱼宴是相当有名的,是难得一尝的美味,去的时候不要错过。湖滨景区还有呼伦湖日出、呼伦蜃景、成吉思汗拴马桩、鸥岛等。游呼伦湖一般需要4-5个小时。 
  从满洲里市区到小河口单程40公里,从满洲里市内的边贸市场门口有车到呼伦湖(车票20元/往返,车型是小型面包车);也可租车去(来回车费100元左右,车型一般是伏尔加),租车的好处在于:时间相对较自由,而且可以从司机那儿打听到一些当地的名吃、名景和风土人情。
  呼伦湖景区门票20元/人;若包海拉尔的出租车前往,则司机不用买票。

 

三、呼伦贝尔草原 

  呼伦贝尔草原位于大兴安岭西侧,东西300公里,南北200公里,面积约10万平方公里。呼伦贝尔大草原是中国目前仍保持完美(没被污染)的草原之一。


(金帐汗蒙古部落   作者:christina)

  1、金帐汗部落 
  金帐汗蒙古部落坐落在陈巴尔虎旗境内,是呼伦贝尔境内唯一以游牧部落为景观的旅游景点,位于呼伦贝尔草原上号称“北疆第一曲水”的莫尔格勒河畔,是呼伦贝尔三大草原旅游点中景色最美的一个,离海拉尔约40分钟车程。这里是中外驰名的天然牧场,也是“天苍苍,野茫茫,风吹草低见牛羊”的呼伦贝尔草原腹地。12世纪末至13世纪初,一代天骄成吉思汗曾在这里秣马厉兵,与各部落争雄,最终占领了呼伦贝尔草原。金帐汗部落景点的布局,就是当年成吉思汗行帐的缩影和再现。 
  金帐汗蒙古部落距海拉尔市区38公里,可乘去往拉布大林方向的班,告诉司机在“金帐汗”下车,车会停在公路边,下车再往西走800米左右就是金帐汗。也可乘出租车前往。
 
  2、呼和诺尔 
  呼和诺尔草原在呼伦贝尔盟陈巴尔虎旗,坐落在呼和诺尔湖畔的高岗上,距海拉尔市约54公里,是呼伦贝尔草原的一部分,也是当地最具代表性的草原民俗旅游点。乘海拉尔去往满洲里方向的长途汽车,在301国道1340公里里程碑处下车,向北走500米即是。也可乘出租车前往,人多的话租车去陈旗或进草原是很好的选择。海拉尔有到各旗的车,到陈旗的尤其多,每20分钟就有一趟。 
  草原内有许多大大小小的河流湖泊,其中呼和诺尔湖景色最佳,湖面四周绿草如茵,湖水清澈洁净,犹如一颗闪亮的明珠,湖边不时有野生的白鹭飞起,岸边不时有只会往前而不会拐弯的青蛙跳起跳落。夏季草原上水草丰美,牛羊遍野,蓝天白云下,景色异常优美。在草原上,你可以住在蒙古包中,真正体味一下蒙古民族特有的风情。 

  3、巴彦胡硕敖包山 
  呼伦贝尔境内另外一个草原旅游点是巴彦胡硕敖包山旅游点,隶属鄂温克自治旗,位于敖包山南部伊敏河畔的岗阜上,距海拉尔39公里。 
  建议租车从海拉尔到鄂温克旗的白音呼硕草原,毕竟,风景都在路上。全程只需20分钟,出租车费用在50元左右。

  4、说明 
  在旅游点消费相对于呼伦贝尔境内的其他消费来说是比较贵的;去的时候多带点衣物和防蚊用品,草原上早晚温差很大,蚊子种类也很多,有一种毒蚊子非常厉害,最好作些准备。

 
四、牙克石 
  牙克石凤凰山庄:凤凰山庄位于牙克石市东南部的沃野南沟,大兴安岭森林和呼伦贝尔草原的交汇处扎敦河畔,占地99公顷,周围的自然风光比较秀美,是个休闲度假的好地方,虽然是人工景点,但景色是比较漂亮的,那些清静幽雅的欧式小屋或许会令你生出些许避居世外的轻松感受。 
  凤凰山庄距牙克石市区8公里,距海拉尔80公里,可乘火车或长途汽车到牙克石,在林城宾馆下车,每到旅游季节,林城宾馆院内不定时有去凤凰山庄的中巴。 
  在牙克石还可去游览大兴安岭原始森林,有机会可以到当地牧民家做客。


 (草原落日   作者:christina)

五、扎兰屯 
  扎兰屯素有“塞外苏杭”之称,位于呼伦贝尔地区东部。1997年,扎兰屯被列为国家级重点风景名胜区。 
  扎兰屯的自然景观天造地设,由于大自然的神奇造化,形成山、水、林交相辉映的自然景观风格。市区的吊桥公园和近郊的秀水、断桥风景区以其清幽自然之美吸引游人不绝如缕。叶剑英、乌兰夫等党和国家领导及老舍、叶圣陶、李准、孙谦等著名人士曾先后前来视察观光并泼墨抒情。此外,市区西南部的浩饶山和柴河山高谷深,峭壁悬崖,水流湍急,林木葱茏,花草茂盛,原始森林生态保存较为完好,形成多处山、水、林、岩融为一体的自然景观。 
  吊桥公园得名于园内的吊桥,吊桥始建于1905年,造型比较奇特。园内古树比较多,在碧绿的树木之间穿行是城市里难得的享受。还有一处景观是一定要去看的,就是1998年7月被洪水冲垮的原雅鲁河大石桥桥头的4根桥头柱,很有文化大革命时期建筑上特有的政治色彩。 
 

呼伦贝尔出游地图


呼伦贝尔旅行线路示意图图(点开大图)
呼伦贝尔旅游景点分布图(点开大图)

 

呼伦贝尔当地交通

一、满洲里交通

  航空
  满洲里机场名为满洲里西郊机场,位于满洲里市西南9公里处。目前已开通的航班有满洲里至北京、上海、杭州、广州、哈尔滨、呼和浩特的直飞或中转航班。

  铁路
  满洲里火车站是隶属于哈尔滨铁路局海拉尔铁路分局的客货运一等站,位于滨洲线西端的终点,与俄罗斯后贝加尔铁路接轨。满洲里站的铁路运输东经哈尔滨通向全国,西向后贝加尔斯克通向俄罗斯和欧洲,是欧亚大陆路桥的连接点。

  公路
  301国道由绥芬河到满洲里,中途经过哈尔滨、大庆、扎兰屯、牙克石、海拉尔等城市。满洲里距哈尔滨1009公里,距大庆888公里,距扎兰屯533公里,距牙克石285公里,距海拉尔200公里。满洲里与新巴尔虎右旗有三级公路相连,距离118公里。

  内部交通
  出租车  满洲里市出租车起步价为7元/2公里,之后1.8元/公里。当地出租车的计价器可以在一张票据上同时显示中文和俄文两种字样,包括金额、出租车号、日期、乘客上下车时间、里程、单价等信息,并在语音提示上增加了俄语提示功能,方便了俄罗斯游客。
  公交车  满洲里市内共有7路公交车,运营时间7:00-19:00,基本可以满足市内出行需要。


二、海拉尔交通

  航空
  海拉尔东山机场距市区7公里,交通方便。每周都有从海拉尔到北京、呼和浩特、锡林浩特等地的航班。
  从海拉尔到北京约两小时可达;海拉尔到呼和浩特约2个半小时可达。
  从海拉尔到市区:海拉尔机场前的一段路正在修,需要绕行老路,因此由机场打车至市区需要50元,而由市区打车至机场需要25元。

  铁路
  海拉尔境内有滨洲铁路通过。北京、哈尔滨、呼和浩特、包头都有火车到海拉尔,从北京到满洲里的火车也经过海拉尔。
  游客可以乘坐:
  北京始发的1301次(早上11:04发车,次日下午15:26到达海拉尔,行程约28小时)
  北京始发的K19次(晚上22:56从北京发车,到海拉尔是第三日凌晨00:37,行程约26小时)

  公路
  呼伦贝尔市公路交通事业,已形成了以海拉尔、那吉镇为枢纽,以国道111线北京-加格达奇,国道301线绥芬河-满洲里,及省道黑河-黑山头、拉布大林-阿木古郎、满洲里-阿拉坦额莫勒等国省干线公路为骨架,以县乡、边防、专用公路为脉络的公路交通网。
  附:海勒尔长途客运站时刻表
  提醒:乘坐长途客车固然经济便捷,但只能在车上隔着玻璃窗户走马观花,无法下车亲身体验大草原的壮阔,更无法与草原上的游牧民作亲密接触。所以,最好还是包车、或是自驾车出行。

  其他
  包车在海拉尔还没有固定的营业组织,可游玩时与当地人、或是出租车司机联系。
  包车一般分两种:按照天数,一般400-500元左右,这里包括了租费、油费和可能有的养路费、过桥费等;还有就是根据线路不同包车,比如从海拉尔去陈巴尔虎旗看那达慕大会,100元左右,从满洲里去呼伦湖包车往返200元左右等。
  在海拉尔,包车车型一般是夏利、捷达、桑塔纳2000三种车型,价格也依次上升,请留意。
 

呼伦贝尔当地住宿


(秋天呼伦贝尔大草原   作者:quwen)

满洲里
  满洲里的住宿比较方便,到处都有宾馆,不过相对住宿条件而言价位可能稍贵。
  在满洲里火车站下火车后过天桥,一道、二道街附近到处是家庭旅店,非周末60-80一个标间。带独立卫生间,24小时热水;一个床位20元到40、50元不等,但是卫生条件稍差,也不能洗澡。节假日和旅游旺季价格会适当上浮。
  另外,洗浴中心也算是一个住宿的选择,能够在楼下洗澡,然后楼上要一个房间睡觉,通常浴资为100元左右,设施比普通旅馆要齐全一些。草原景区的各种“蒙古包”度假村也提供住宿,总体来说条件比市区艰苦,而且价位不算便宜。
  一般满洲里在7、8月时是旅游旺季,宾馆比较难找,最好提前预订。
  旅行者客栈:标间旺季180元左右,淡季120元左右;可适当讲价。房间的安全、卫生条件较好。地址:满洲里北区西一道街俄罗斯风情园7号楼
  大草地旅馆:一个床位40元左右,有公用卫生间与澡堂。地址:满洲里北区一道街叶尼塞俄罗斯风情园12号楼A座6单元

海拉尔
  海拉尔市内有各种不同档次的宾馆,在市中心地区的中央大街上集中了许多中高档的宾馆,一些小规模的旅店里,价格会更便宜,通常只需几十元即可。另外,还可以在草原上牧民提供的帐篷中,感受地道的草原风情。
 

呼伦贝尔当地饮食


(手把肉   作者: nimbiaca)
  1.手把肉:也称手抓肉,海拉尔河西区新桥下面“蒙古王爷府”的比较著名,但价格稍贵。一定要记得吃手把肉,夏天是吃手把肉的好季节啊! 
  2.涮羊肉:吃的时候可以先来一壶奶茶,并且一定要点清汤锅底,否则吃不出呼伦贝尔羊肉那种清香味。 
  3.狗肉火锅:海拉尔最著名的狗肉馆是俄罗斯城西门对面的米阿里和其旁边的三千里,都是老字号。 
  4.锅包肉:海拉尔的锅包肉是当地的一道名菜,河东区成吉思汗广场对面民族饮食文化城一楼有一家“兴登堡”饭店,号称“锅包肉一绝”。 
  5.炒白蘑、炒花脸蘑:这两种蘑菇只有草原上才有,而且只有夏季下过一场透雨,并且第二天出太阳,才可以生出蘑菇,你要是赶上了一定要尝一尝,尤其是炒鲜白蘑,味道极其鲜美。只要赶上时间,这两道菜到每家饭店几乎都可以吃到。 

呼伦贝尔行程规划


(莫尔格勒河     作者:春寒)
  满洲里—— 呼伦湖——海拉尔 —— 金帐汗或者去呼和诺尔——莫尔格勒河 —— 海拉尔—— 北山遗址—— 牙克石——扎兰屯——吊桥公园/秀水/断桥风景区
  本行程仅作参考,尤其是票价,以实际支付为准。

  D1:从其他地方到达哈尔滨。空调快车N91次,晚19:50自哈尔滨站出发(19:12自哈尔滨东站始发,终到站满洲里),到满洲里硬座120元,硬卧216元(中铺)。(若决定先到海拉尔,硬座103元,硬卧185元。) 

  D2:历时14时38分后(到海拉尔则为11个小时),上午10:05到达满洲里,途经大庆、扎兰屯、牙克石、海拉尔等,全程954公里。找好住处,吃饭,之后在市内登国门一览俄罗斯村庄景致,参观中俄互市贸易区,购物,夜宿满洲里。 

  D3:早起后退房,从边贸市场门口乘车到呼伦湖,车费约20元。到呼伦湖可以在湖上泛舟,惬意十足。中午在湖畔的饭店里品尝“全鱼宴”,下午乘车去海拉尔,这样不用再返回满洲里。夜宿海拉尔。(或前一日找好车辆,租车前往,这样比较自由,但回程时可能要返回满洲里。可视情况决定是否租车。) 

  D4:早起后乘车去金帐汗或者去呼和诺尔(可自己决定去哪里,去其中一个地方即可),观赏草原风光,品尝地道的手把肉,欣赏热烈奔放的蒙古族歌舞。晚上参加篝火晚会,夜里住在蒙古包中。 

  D5:早上起来看草原日出、敖包、中国第一曲水——莫尔格勒河畔、牛群、羊群,在清晨的薄雾下,远远近近的牛群、羊群,在广阔的草原上,很漂亮。有机会的话可以到牧民家中去做客,切实体会一下异族风情。之后可在草原上纵马驰骋,有兴致的话,可以乘坐内蒙古特有的交通工具——勒勒车在草原玩耍。下午返回海拉尔,在海拉尔城中转转,沿伊敏河走走,有时间可去西山公园。夜宿海拉尔。 

  D6:早起后去侵华日军海拉尔要塞北山遗址(和万人坑)。之后返回,可坐汽车或火车去牙克石,两地相距约80公里,车次较多,约1到1个半小时可到。到达后去凤凰山庄,其地靠大兴安岭。夜宿凤凰山庄。 

  D7:坐车去扎兰屯,历时4小时左右,中午前后到达。下午选择吊桥公园、秀水、断桥风景区中的一到两个,体验塞外苏杭的意境。夜宿扎兰屯。(也可乘当晚2:07的N92次车,次日早上7:05到哈尔滨,历时5时02分,这样可以节约时间在哈尔滨多呆一天,但是会比较累;或者乘坐当晚20:46的1302次车,凌晨1:50到哈尔滨,历时5时07分。这些车全都是从满洲里过来的,硬座票价均为62元。) 

  D8:上午在扎兰屯市内,中午吃完饭后略为休息,乘从满洲里过来的4192/3次车,下午15:56从扎兰屯出发,晚21:42到哈尔滨,历时5时49分,硬座票价31元。夜宿哈尔滨。 
  (以上行程中,若时间不足,可放弃牙克石或扎兰屯其中的一处,可以至少减少一天时间。) 

  D9:可以在哈尔滨呆一两天,也可考虑返回的问题。

  贴士
  在满洲里旅行,交通的费用和时间会占很大比例。推荐包车,这样比较方便,可以随时修订旅行计划,最重要的是不用受线路约束,可以随意在风景好的地方停下游玩。包车要注意选择车况较好的车(包括舒适度,油箱大小,车龄等),以及技术熟练的司机师傅。
  另外,如果条件允许,包车时尽量挑车型大一点的,这样路途上会比较舒适。如果车小一些,每天几百公里的车程跑下来,人会很难受。而且该地区的加油站较少,油箱大的车跑长一些的路线比较稳妥。
 

呼伦贝尔其他信息


(临江秋色  作者:老荣)
  1、区划
  2001年10月撤销呼伦贝盟设立地级呼伦贝尔市。呼伦贝尔盟下辖海拉尔市、满洲里市、牙克石市、扎兰屯市、根河市、额尔古纳市、陈巴尔虎旗、阿荣旗、新巴尔虎左旗、新巴尔虎右旗、鄂伦春自治旗、莫力达瓦达斡尔族自治旗、鄂温克族自治旗。
 
  2、风俗禁忌 
  在呼伦贝尔草原上生活的蒙古部族很多,下面主要介绍人数最多的一支蒙古族——巴尔虎蒙古族的风俗习惯。 
  进蒙古包要从火炉左侧走,坐在蒙古包的西侧和北侧,东侧是主人起居处,尽量不要坐。入座时不要挡住北面哈那上挂着的佛像。进包后可席地而坐,不必脱鞋,但是记住不要坐在门槛上。如果想要方便,记住去蒙古包南方较远的地方,不要到蒙古包的东、西侧,这个方向有羊圈,更不要到北侧,因为气味会随风刮入蒙古包里。

  3.建议旅行必备品
  防风保暖外罩:满洲里天气变化很快,日夜温差大,即使夏天的晚上也比较凉。
  防蚊产品(花露水、蚊不叮之类):草场、湖边等地方蚊虫都比较多。
  防晒霜:紫外线比较强,要防止晒伤。
  保湿护肤品:气候比较干燥,经常刮风。
  除此之外,如果包车的话,可以准备几箱瓶装水带上,保证喝水卫生;太阳镜、帽子等也最好带上。

呼伦贝尔当地视频

呼伦贝尔出游参考

去草原适合听的音乐:

  《牧民新歌》 笛子独奏
  下载地址:http://www.texmachine.net/xianwei/tz/di.mp3

  《归来的马》 贺西格马头琴专辑
  下载地址:http://www.wmlife.cn/UploadFile/_wmlife_audio/audioupload/instrument/0703/HXG%20horse%20comeback/5.wma

  《天堂》 腾格尔
  下载地址:http://124.161.95.165/娱乐天地/音乐/天堂.mp3

  《美丽的草原我的家》 德德玛
  下载地址:http://61.142.172.18/EduResource/yinyue/Upload/德德玛-美丽的草原我的家.mp3

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