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野花入侵镇虏关——北京撞道口长城自助游攻略(2015年修订版)

发布时间:2014年04月03日 编辑:空游无依 访问:33328 评论:20条 发表评论! 纠错!
所属地区: 北京 郊区 适合人群: 所有人 出游难度: 轻松
适合天数: 1天 花费预算: 20元 适合时间: 4月 5月 9月 10月
可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 怀柔 黄花城 撞道口 长城 野花 山花 ◎切换到无图简洁版


(野花的入侵 摄影:空游无依)
  从撞道口村北那两棵夹道欢迎的“龙凤松”穿过去,就开始山路爬升了。小径蜿蜒,出了村,是一片果树林,不知是杏儿还是李子,未叶先花,干柯雪点,但花未全盛,枝头上绽满了白色的蕾。石径很古老的样子,北方四月的山野,还只是绿意隐隐,石缝里偶尔一小片蓝色的堇,很招摇的样子。一块大石头上在用石灰水胡乱涂了巨大的“素质”两字,让人啼笑皆非。其实沿途一直有些小标语,诸如“自家果林”“严禁采摘”“偷果砍手”之类的。这果林主人是受了野游客多大的伤害呀?然而说实话,游人“素质”的确良莠不齐,悲观地想,以后几十年,这都是难破之壁。我们现在能做的,唯有独善其身。
  那些字就像是怒眼,被果林主人的标语狠狠地盯着,难免有些小心翼翼,偶尔风吹花落,也小吃一惊,在心里辩白不是我不是我干的——果然是瓜田李下,要避嫌呢。
  好在很快就到撞道口关口了,等于上到垭口,果树林到头了。这是一座保存相对较好的长城野关口,券门匾额上“撞道口”三个明代的古字依稀可辨。券门另一面的匾额,原有“镇虏关”三字,已看不清了。长城在明代,实际上叫做“边墙”。这一段边墙,现在东接黄花城水库,西连西水峪水库,这两个小水库,把边墙在山谷里的部分淹没,成了“水长城”,其中西水峪水库现在已被开发成“黄花城水长城旅游区”。撞道口长城以前又叫镇虏关,现在已经鲜为人知。

(柔枝 摄影:空游无依)
  我们沿着长城向西攀去。第一座敌楼已残破成“无尽苍桑”的姿态,砖石危拱,仅仅只撑着建筑的形状,虚构它原有的框架和框架里的空间。门窗被破损扩大,山风烈烈,而填塞这些破损空洞的,是在视觉里连峰伏峦海啸山呼的野花。单独看那些野杏山桃,花朵纤弱娇媚,而这样漫山遍野地被成千上万树的手臂高举摇摆挥舞着,从山谷拥上山脊山峰,越过长城,又俯冲而下,柔媚也就成了壮阔。长城什么也没有挡住——故时没有挡住敌寇,现在没有挡住野花。但长城本身从来没有因此失败,它成了世界上最有名的风景之一。
  你徒劳地阻挡我;
  我徒劳地逾越你。
  长城没有挡住的游牧民族,后来和我们血肉一体;而此时,野花的入侵,则在每一个登上长城的游人心头怒放着惊喜。现代存在的长城之所以成为风景,是因为它是由人类文明、大自然和时间共同缔造的。时间是大手笔,他将人类文明和大自然的矛盾化解,溶为一体。断壁与山岩一同供养开花的树,峰峦因一道残垣而独特。
  撞道口这一段长城山势不如箭扣那么险象环生,城墙保存自然状态不像八达岭那样新,徒步路线又不是很远,因此成了轻户外的佳选。从撞道口关口向西,一路怀古,一路赏花,一路翻山越岭地活动筋骨,呼吸早春的山野空气。直到俯瞰山谷里,一汪碧水,倒映粉白嫩红野花包围的峻峰,游艇破浪,在水面上划一道弧——黄花城水长城风景区就到了,就此下山,是景区门口的西水峪村。
  (文字作者:空游无依)


春天的簇拥 摄影:空游无依


城下的老人 摄影:空游无依


春天汹涌 摄影:空游无依


鲜嫩与苍劲 摄影:空游无依


山光花色 摄影:单车旅行的肥猫


远峰故垒 摄影:空游无依


艳色 摄影:空游无依


乱花渐欲迷人眼 摄影:空游无依


花中行 摄影:空游无依


深邃 摄影:空游无依


隐于万花山丛的绿水 摄影:单车旅行的肥猫


看见岁月 摄影:空游无依


曲折 摄影:空游无依


指点江山 摄影:空游无依


视野 摄影:单车旅行的肥猫


窗外的世界 摄影:空游无依


窥见 摄影:空游无依

撞道口景点介绍


(明代的遗迹 摄影:空游无依)
  撞道口村位于北京市怀柔县九渡河镇,距市区约70多公里。村庄从前是守关的城堡,坐落在怀九河畔,背靠明代古长城,距黄花城水长城景区(西水峪水库)仅有2公里;距离黄花城水库长城也只有两三公里。这里环境优美,山清水秀,长城著名关口“镇虏关”就位于该村北500米处,因此撞道口长城也被称为镇虏关长城。从撞道口村穿过此关口可以到达另一个古城堡鹞子峪村。关口门洞南北两侧分别安装石匾额。南面匾额“撞道口”三字还依稀可见,北面“镇虏关”三字已经不太清晰。
  撞道口长城东临黄花城水库,西靠西水峪水库。西水峪水库现改称为黄花城水长城旅游区(其实就是水库蓄水后,淹没了那段沟底下的城墙),当然景区是收费的;而东端的黄花城水库通往长城的山道上,当地村民设卡,路过的游人也要收费。只有撞道口长城不但原汁原味、原生原态,最可人疼的是现在还没有收费。
  撞道口-鹞子峪这两个古老的村庄位于山区,果树经济是村民收入的重要部分。每年四月份,这一带农民种植的梨树、杏树和桃树会突然开花,粉白艳红,与此同时,为了唱和一般,漫山遍野的野杏山桃,也一齐开花。而顺着山势盘旋的古长城,苍劲古朴,被簇拥在粉嫩娇艳的山花丛中,形成独特的景观,于是成了摄影爱好者和户外徒步爱好者亲睐的地方。

  景区信息
  地址:北京市怀柔区九渡河镇撞道口村
  电话:010-61652908(当地村民)
  门票:无
  交通:怀21路在村口有撞道口站
  花期:每年气候略有不同,因此花期难以确指,一般会在每年的四月五日(清明节)至四月二十五号之间。

(没有人的山谷 摄影:单车旅行的肥猫
  花色与景点分布
  1、撞道口村北,去镇虏关的路上,以及穿过关门的山路两边,都是村民的果林,主要是杏花、梨花和桃花。
  2、从镇虏关爬上长城,则主要是野山杏和野山桃花。沿长城往西走,可以到达西水峪水库(黄花城水长城景区)的上方,可以俯瞰山谷里的水库绿水映山花。这条线是撞道口长城的主要游玩线路,可以从水长城景区门口下山。
  3、长城主线有个分岔,那一段长城由砖彻变成石垒,那是关城的城墙,比主城墙要破败得多,而且道路艰难,走得人很少,沿此可以走到鹞子峪山谷,一路都是野杏花。(道路难走,驴友可以尝试,不推荐游人。)
  4、鹞子峪村北边的山上也有残长城,为关城,山顶有两到三个敌楼,保存尚好,那一带游人极少,道路隐敝,但满山野花,非常壮观,沿那一段长城,可以走到二道关村。(道路难走,驴友可以尝试,不推荐游人。)

  周边景点
  黄花城水长城景区:
  春满四月,水长城的山桃花正是千娇百媚之时。像巨龙般蜿蜒腾越的明代残长城,在枯黄的背景下,残垣断壁仍见当日雄风。与之相伴的桃花,嫩蕊娇容,硬是在其悲壮萧瑟的气势中搏出一片生机盎然。更多详情见:http://www.likefar.com/route/5457/

撞道口出游地图


撞道口长城走势图(点击可入大)


撞道口位置图(点击可放大)

撞道口当地交通


(龙凤松,撞道口的路标 摄影:海豚鱼)
  撞道口村北有两棵奇特的古松,被当地人称为“龙凤松”。树龄在300年以上。两松树主干高约三米。树冠顶部平舒,枝杈横向伸展,一株如凤展翅,一株似龙腾跃。凤松伏于龙松上,两松状若门庭,景观奇特。古松两边,都是农家乐和山居客栈。而树冠下的古道,就是通往镇虏关关口(撞道口长城)的要道。
  撞道口的交通还是蛮方便的,邻近黄花城长城景区,有公交车可以到达,一般有两条线,一是从怀柔乘坐怀21路,到撞道口村站下车即可;另一种线是从昌平坐昌32路到九渡河北(终点)站下来,换乘怀21路。一般来讲,由于昌平离北京更近,坐公交从昌平要快一些。如果在九渡河北长时间等不到车,也可以打车去,六座车大约20元。
  昌平方向:(推荐)
  德胜门(345路)-昌平北站(昌32路)-九渡河北(怀21路)-撞道口村
  怀柔方向:
  东直门(916路)-怀柔于家园(怀21路)-撞道口村
  自驾车:
  京藏高速-昌赤路-十三陵-怀长路-九渡河-安四路-黄花城桥-Y353-撞道口村

撞道口当地住宿


(北方乡村 摄影:空游无依)
  一般来讲,去撞道口徒步登山赏花,有一天时间足够返回北京了。但如果要在撞道口住一晚,也是可以的。那一带乡村旅游经济特别发达,无论撞道口村还是西水峪村,几乎家家户户都有农家乐。但是,每当清明,五一这样的小长假,往往很快就暴满,所以最好提前电话询问一下。以下三个是撞道口村的农家乐:
  四和居
  地址:撞道口村
  电话:010-61653124
  禄马贵山庄
  地址:撞道口村
  电话:13716385899
  枣香庭院
  地址:撞道口村
  电话:010-61652908

撞道口当地饮食

  去撞道口爬长城赏花,需要带一顿路餐和运动一天足够的饮用水。虽然这里爬山运动强度不算太大,但也约莫需要大半天时间,如果不想在外住,就要赶下午的班车回城区,这样将会没有时间在附近用餐。
  如果打算住在撞道口,那边的农家乐,潜规则是你住在哪家,就得在哪家吃,不然老板会生气。怀柔农家乐的特点,最有名的就是虹鳟鱼。赤身、碳烤,这两种吃法最是妙。

撞道口行程规划

  撞道口长城赏花适合一天的行程,基本路线是从撞道口村上山,见撞道口关口后登上长城,往西走,沿长城走到西水峪水库下山可到黄花城水长城景区门口结束。拍照加游玩,大约五个小时足够。

撞道口其他信息


(野花 摄影:空游无依)
  在四月份,撞道口一带山野除了大片大片的野杏花、山桃花,路边石缝还有些其他野花,仔细观察,也非常漂亮。上左图是一种菊科里唯一的灌木,有个有趣的名字,叫“蚂蚱腿子”,小片小片地开花,有一股闷闷的香味;上右图是最常见的“堇菜”;下左图是“白头翁”,别看它现在蓝紫色的花冠,过段日子,它就会变成一头白色乱发;下右图是“远志”,这么有意境的名字,它是一种中草药。
  其他还有二月兰和地黄,二月兰又叫诸葛菜,在城里的小区绿地也常见;地黄长得土土的,不过它可是名药“六味地黄丸”的主味。

撞道口出游参考

  “单车旅行的肥猫”是北京的一位摄影师,爱长城,爱野山,他拍的撞道口长城美仑美奂。
  详情见:http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_4d46e7b90102e7d7.html

攻略制作队伍

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摄影:空游无依 单车旅行的肥猫 海豚鱼

行者:空游无依

本攻略最后修订时间:2015年03月11日

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