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行吟新都桥,光与影的对话——2012年四川甘孜州康定县新都桥自助游攻略

发布时间:2012年09月14日 编辑:大元 访问:40358 评论:40条 发表评论! 纠错!
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可信标志: (本攻略已通过所有细节核实,读者可放心参考。)
攻略标签: 四川 甘孜州 康定县 新都桥 ◎切换到无图简洁版


(光与影掠过的新都桥  作者:雪狐莹天)
   其实是走川藏线的时候经过新都桥,早就听说她有着“摄影家天堂”的美誉,于是便与队友选择在离新都桥约10公里的地方下车徒步前行。我们经过的时候正是新都桥最美的季节——金秋,公路两旁的白杨树闪耀金黄的光芒,牦牛、黄羊懒懒地点缀在秋意盎然的田园中,阳光从山梁上泻下,散落在延绵的山脊上,像镶着一道金边,让人忍不住感叹这神奇的光线。山谷中飘着若有若无的薄雾,蜿蜒的溪流从独具特色的红、黑、白三色藏族民居前温柔地流淌而过。真是闻名不如见面,满眼蓝色、白色、金黄、黑色、绿色的饱和色块,在明丽的秋阳光线下,恍如置身画中。
  在川藏线上,不论是驾着越野车一路飞奔的“野牛族”,还是爱好徒步、骑行探险的户外“悍客”,赞不绝口的总是新都桥。新都桥,犹如孙悟空有着72般变化,不论何时何地何种光影,总能以一种绝美的姿态出现在你眼前,不费吹灰之力就爆掉你的相机存储卡。

(远处的雪山和村落一同倒影在湖面  作者:卢海林)
  沿着川藏公路南线前行,只见一个个典型的藏族村落依山傍水地散布在公路两旁。康定这边主要是嘉绒藏族,藏族民居的窗户、屋檐、大门都用藏族特色的色彩明快的花纹装饰起来了,民居的修建都是就地取材,用一种石板堆砌起来的。这里的居民家家户户都种花,花朵颜色鲜艳,或紫红或大红,或明艳的黄色或华丽的紫色。有的房屋前修个花园,有的把花盆摆在窗户前,有的种在屋顶上。我一直觉得喜欢种花的人都一定很懂得生活!在这里还能看到一种树——白杨树,在深秋的光影里,泛着金黄的光。随处可见的牦牛披着它黑白相间的长毛外套,在小溪边的的草地上悠闲的散步,吃草。渴了就喝一口雪山上流下的溪水,困了就躺到阳光下打个盹。你们说,这样的牦牛肉能不好吃吗?这里还有一种常见的动物——藏狗。体形高大威猛,嘴也很宽,外型有些像藏敖。闲时,就躺在这蓝天白云的高山草原上,晒晒太阳,看看热闹,看着路上来来往往的汽车和游客。这里也能看到藏区常见的红黄蓝白绿五色经幡,矗立在草原上的白塔和玛尼堆。草地,白杨树,青稞地,溪水,精致的民居,悠闲的牦牛,簇簇格桑花再搭配上蓝天白云和金色的阳光,日落时分感受着新都桥光影的魅力,随着山丘起伏的阴暗变换,美到极致。
  暮色浸染了整个新都桥镇,不大的镇子被四周的山峦所笼罩,镇上的繁华也就是一条国道横穿。镇上并不没有什么美景,多是当地藏民,出于安全考虑,我们没有在闹市逗留太久,且客栈大都集中在离镇2公里的地方。我们很庆幸中途徒步前行,因为新都桥的美不在镇上,而在去往新都桥的路上。

(秋意盎然  作者:天地一沙鸥)
  安顿下来,我已经感受到高原反应带来的不适,像是感冒的前兆,头晕、无力,本想在客栈休息,但还想抓紧天黑前的有限时间,去浏览新都桥的风光。我们的客栈在公路边,公路对面是一条宽阔的河流,河谷两侧宽阔,有片草场,色彩嫩绿,上面还开着各色的小花,队友指着不起眼的五瓣小花说是格桑花,很普通的花朵,杆细瓣小,看上去弱不禁风的样子,十分不符合我心中对格桑花的想象。格桑花和愈加严重的高原反应都在告诉我现已身处高原,望望远处暮色下的山峦,高原的风光更真切。草地远处的一个小山上有个高台,经幡招展,那里大概就是观看贡嘎雪山最好的天台了。可惜我体力有限,加上天空云量很多,远处山影都看不到,也就没有上去。又与贡嘎山错过了。
  队友中已有几人有高原反应,再者,留恋着新都桥的风景,于是决定多呆一天。夜晚吃下两片芬必得,头痛有些缓解,就想着看看客栈的装饰。走出院子,瞥眼一看,漫天的繁星,从未感觉原来星星可以这么多这么亮,甚至胜过月光!密集闪亮的星星,巨大的银河,飞越的流星,就想这样一直抬头望着……新都桥的星空,我坚信那是我有生以来看到过最璀璨的星空!

(雅拉雪山脚下是塔公寺  作者:mtv323)
  第二天清晨,我们早早起来,希望在起程之前看到新都桥的日出。东方远处有个山口,比较明亮,可惜云朵翻腾,看不到朝霞的影子。新都桥弥漫在清晨的氤氲之中,随着云聚云散,天空时而露出蓝天,难得的霞光,在山坡上游走,使山坡上光影变化。当初升的太阳越过东方的山峦,撒向地面的那一刻,最先照耀的是杨树,日光把柏杨的身影拉得长长的,一直延伸到很远的草地上。
  远处一座山头上聚满了白云,像戴一顶白色的帽子。路上还遇到两个藏族小姑娘,两腮浓浓的高原红像是擦着胭脂。走出不远回头一看,整个村庄已全被照亮了。我们带着满足的心情和余留的高原反应与新都桥说再见,走向“戴白帽子的远山”方向……
(文字作者:大刘)


秋季鲜亮的色彩  作者:风恒

新都桥有着“摄影天堂”的美誉  作者:佚名

秋天,杨树渐黄,天高云淡  作者:海阔天空

层林浸染,山上刻有梵文佛经中的六字真言 作者:耗子

高山草甸  作者:毕兹卡晓棠

一日两季  作者:懒人

牦牛在悠闲的吃草  作者:鲤鱼2011

春夏漫山鲜花盛开  作者:mtv323

晨曦,薄雾升腾  作者:快门

春季的新都桥  作者:老周

秋季金黄的柏杨  作者:leslizy 1

从高尔寺山顶俯看新都桥   作者:卢海林

当地康巴人在收获青稞  作者:风恒

康巴族的男人也有着精美的头饰  作者:卢海林

五彩经幡轻飘在蓝天下  作者:考拉 

公路两边的柏杨随季节渐变颜色,直到金黄  作者:网球天王

拍写真及婚纱照的游客慕名而来  作者:搞不懂

雪山就在不远处  作者:搞不懂

高原上的格桑花  作者:tino

新都桥有着油画般美景  作者:leslizy

新都桥景点介绍


(如油画般层次鲜明  作者:群芳争妍)
  新都桥镇又叫东俄洛,是一个镇名,这里没有什么标志性景观,却因为神奇的光线及绮丽的田园风光广受美誉,被称为摄影师的天堂。海拔3300米左右,高原气候,温差较大,气候多变。它是处在川藏公路的南北分叉路口,北通甘孜、西接理塘,是从西藏通往康定的必经之路,距离康定县城80公里。
  新都桥是一片如诗如画的世外桃源。神奇的光线,无垠的草原,弯弯的小溪,金黄的柏杨,山峦连绵起伏,藏寨散落其间,牛羊安详地吃草,川西的平原风光美丽地绽放。
  地址:四川省甘孜藏族自治州康定县新都桥镇,距康定县城80公里。
周边景点
  居里寺
  居里寺位于新都桥居里村,居里镇上约7公里,是一个历经47代堪布和三代活佛的千年古寺。居里寺原在折多山上,六百多年前搬至居里村,是当地最有威望的喇嘛寺。
  既然是千年古寺,自然藏有宝贝。居里寺内有三大镇寺之宝:一是有1000多年历史、全世界仅存的三部之一的手抄本《甘珠尔大藏经》108卷;二是保存较为完好的600-700年的壁画;三是寺内珍藏的法海活佛法骨变成的海螺状舍利子的灵塔。
  地址:四川省甘孜藏族自治州康定县新都桥镇居里村

  折多山
  折多山位于四川省甘孜州境内,垭口处海拔4298米,是康巴第一关。
  "折多"在藏语中是弯曲的意思,写成汉语又是"折多"二字。折多山的盘山公路确实是九曲十八弯,来回盘绕就象"多"字一样,拐了一个弯,又是一个弯,当地人就有俗语称:"吓死人的二郎山,翻死人的折多山"。
  站在折多山顶环视贡嘎群峰,山峦叠嶂,白雪皑皑,"蜀山之王"--海拔7556米的贡噶山巅,近在眼前。
  地址:四川省甘孜州境内

  塔公草原
  "塔公"意为"菩萨喜欢的地方",风景之美令人流连忘返。特别是在夏秋之际,在茵茵草甸上,野花竞相绽放,绚丽多彩,徜徉于花海之中飘飘欲仙。牛羊马群、帐篷和寺庙塔林相交织,呈现出绮丽斑斓的迷人景色。
  远方,著名的雅拉神山从草原上拔地而起,巍峨壮观,终年银装披挂,群云缭绕,与广袤的绿色草原和金碧辉煌的塔公寺相衬托,展现出一派秀丽的高原风光。
  地址:四川甘孜藏族自治州康定县内,康定城西北部113公里处

新都桥出游地图


新都桥交通方位图

新都桥交通示意图

新都桥当地交通

  新都桥北通甘孜、南接理塘,是川藏南北线的交汇地,交通便利。从康定至新都桥80公里路程,全是新铺的柏油路,车程约2~3小时。行驶至73公里时要翻越海拔4900多米的折多山,可远眺"蜀山之王"贡嘎山。各大主要城市去新都桥可先到成都或康定,再转车到新都桥。新都桥及康定都没有通火车,做客车是最好的选择。

  客车
  康定方向:康定到新都桥没有直达班车,只有过路班车,康定到雅江、稻城、理塘、道孚方向的车,都会经过新都桥。同时也可以包车前往,在康定广播电视塔下有夏利车至新都桥,40元/人。从康定搭乘过路班车或包车都是去新都桥最方便的乘车方式。
  成都方向:从新南门汽车站乘坐到雅江、理塘、稻城的车,会经过新都桥并停车。成都到康定约7个小时车程,沿路会穿过中国最长的公路隧道--二郎山隧道。

  航空
  康定机场地处甘孜州首府康定县西北的折多山上,海拔4280米,是世界第三高海拔机场,可眺望贡嘎山和亚拉神山。康定机场目前只有到昆明、重庆两条航线,机场距离康定县城40公里,有交通车接送,票价27元。康定机场在康定和新都桥两者之间,可以先到康定,再转车到新都桥,或打的直接到新都桥,直接去新都桥约30分钟车程。

旅游小贴士
  新都桥及康定机场属高原地带,一些人可能有不同程度的高原反应,要保持乐观的情绪,逐渐适应,在其他信息一栏里有高原反应的注意事项。

新都桥当地住宿


  新都桥镇有着摄影师天堂的美誉,慕名前往的游客不在少数,所以住宿已比较完善。大多数住宿都属于民居型的家庭旅馆。新都桥的建筑为典型木雅地区石木结构的藏式建筑,在门楣、窗台都雕有生动、细致的图案花饰。推荐住宿:
      康巴第一藏庄
  推荐理由:成都至稻城一线最著名的藏式民居,老板邓珠。属于民居型的家庭旅馆,有公共卫生间.大家都习惯了"去新都桥就要住康巴第一藏庄"的说法。
  价格:标间100-200元/间;床位20-30元/人。黄金期价格按4倍增长。
  电话:13990485959   0836-2866256

  新都桥假日客栈
  推荐理由:客栈内有无线网络覆盖,还提供自助免费洗衣服。干净舒适卫生。15间客房,有双人标间和三人标间两种房间,房间内有独立卫生间。客栈内部还提供餐厅服务。
  地址:位于318国道旁边,康定县新都桥镇,加油站往西50米处。
  电话:18283661097 
  价格: 25元/人 ,国庆:200/人

  新都桥木雅背包客栈
  推荐理由:双人间在3楼,有可爱的小天台,主人白马央吉是当地人。
  地址:位于318国道旁边,康定县新都桥镇。
  电话:0836-2866565
  价格: 25元/人,国庆:150元/人

新都桥当地饮食


(藏餐  作者:佚名)
  新都桥的饮食一般以川菜、藏餐为主,在新都桥几乎所有的蔬菜都依靠内地输送,所以热爱"素食"的游客恐怕会感到不适,但是传统的藏餐:糌粑、青稞酒、酥油茶、牦牛肉、烤羊肉倒是可以好好的品尝一番。推荐饮食:

  康巴第一藏庄
  推荐理由:康巴第一藏庄算是公认很不错的旅馆了,里面餐厅提供的饮食也很多样化,藏餐和川菜都有。
  价格:素菜约15元/个,荤菜25-30元/个。
  电话:13990485959   0836-2866256

当地特色饮食
  糌粑
  糌粑是藏族牧民传统主食之一。"糌粑"是炒面的藏语译音,它是藏族人民天天必吃的主食,在藏族同胞家作客,主人一定会给你双手端来喷香的奶茶和青稞炒面,金黄的酥油和奶黄的"曲拉"(干酪素)、糖叠叠层层摆满桌。

  青稞酒
  青稞酒,藏语叫做"羌",是用青藏高原出产的一种主要粮食--青稞制成的。它是青藏人民最喜欢喝的酒,逢年过节、结婚、生孩子、迎送亲友,必不可少。

  牦牛肉
  其肉细嫩味美,适口性极佳,色鲜,味美,郁香,细嫩多汁,具有高蛋白、低脂肪的显著特点,是纯天然绿色食品。

新都桥行程规划

  新都桥主要的看点是绮丽的自然风光,所以适合放慢脚步细细品味,而且刚从平原到达新都桥的游客可能又会不同程度的高原反应,所以可以在此多逗留几日。看大自然鬼斧神工造就的土林、金色的桦木、白杨林,变幻的神奇光线、藏式风格的建筑、一日两季的高原风光,感受这个塞外小镇浓郁的藏乡风情。
  若时间允许,可以去康定西北塔公镇的塔公草原看看,塔公草原同样风景如画,天穹苍苍,草原无际。

新都桥其他信息


(一位老人走过塔公寺的转经筒  作者:特吕弗)
  去往新都桥,除了高原反应方面的注意事项,进入藏区还应尊重藏族地区的文化和信仰习惯。

  高原反应的注意事项
  部分初次进入高原的人,24小时内可能会出现头疼、头晕、全身乏力、难以入睡等高原反应症状。高原反应是因为身体为适应因海拔高度而造成的气压差、含氧量少、空气干燥等的变化而产生的自然生理反应,海拔高度一般达到2700米左右时,就会有高原反应。
  1.进藏区前睡眠和休息要充足,有条件者可适当饮用红景天等饮料,严重高血压、心脏病患者不宜进高原。
  2.心理准备:保持乐观情绪,如有心理负担会加重高原反应,一般1-2天后,症状会逐步减轻或消失。
  3.适量饮用酥油茶、奶制品、红景天等饮料可增强对高原气候的适应能力。
  4.多休息,多喝水多吃水果,禁烟酒。不要奔跑和剧烈运动。

  旅游贴士
  新都桥属高原气候,昼夜温差较大,且一日内气候多变,应带齐防寒、防雨衣具。到新都桥旅游,8-10月是最佳季节,8月,气候温暖草甸上处处盛开着鲜花,10月,白杨树披上金色的树叶,配上红、黑、白色为主的民居,将新都桥装扮成一个色彩世界。
  友情提示:足够的胶卷、相机电池、现金、全球通手机、湿纸巾、个人卫生用品、墨镜、防晒霜。

  摄影技巧
  都说在新都桥随手按下快门就是景。其实不然,最好的光线出现在早上或者黄昏,站在村头的山坡,整个河谷尽收眼底,你会看到清晨第一缕阳光恰如其分的打在村子里,或是黄昏最后一缕阳光从远处慢慢移走。天空有云得时候,会有精彩的局部光精巧的打在村舍、杨树或坡地上。而新都桥最美的风光在新都桥到至塔公草原的路上,这样就可以在最适合摄影的时间捕捉新都桥的最美了。如果要拍照新都桥远处贡嘎山位背景的照片,第二天早起上小镇高处的贡嘎观光台拍摄。还有几处适合拍照的地点:
  1、从折多山下山后,在一宽阔的弯道处的寨子旁。
  2、从折多山方向距新都桥还有20公里的一处养路道班旁。
  3、从营(官)九(龙)公路分岔处,继续沿318国道向前约1公里处的一个高坡上。
  4、沿营九公路向九龙方向7公里处。

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